If you’re not Eva Chen and retinol doesn’t agree with your skin, these alternatives work just as well

Retinol is considered the gold standard of skincare, but if it makes your face look like the Sahara Desert, you have some options
High-end skincare products that use four alternative ingredients are nearly as effective, and kind to your skin

Beauty

Annie Brown

Published: 2:45am, 22 Nov 2019

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In a recent interview for New York Magazine’s The Cut on Tuesday podcast, Eva Chen, head of fashion partnerships at Instagram and an influencer in her own right, said her hero skincare product was retinol.

“The most important skincare ingredient is the least sexy one — retinol. I mean, right now CBD is trending in skincare. But retinol, it’s been around forever,” she said, acknowledging that in an industry always in search of the next magical thing, retinol may not have been the most exciting choice, but is the proven gold standard of skincare.

Retinol is not for everyone, however. As Chen’s interviewer, Stella Bugbee, the editor-in-chief of The Cut, quipped, retinol makes her look like “the Sahara Desert”.

A quick rundown: retinol is a form of vitamin A and a type of retinoid. There are three different types of retinoids: pure retinoic acid – this is the strongest form, which you can only buy with a prescription; retinol – this is a weaker product and can be bought over the counter; and retinol derivatives – the gentlest kind. Retinol is known for its serious anti-ageing, collagen-boosting and acne-soothing effects.

Eva Chen is head of fashion partnerships at Instagram. Photo: Alamy

As Sydney-based dermatologist Dr Elizabeth Dawes-Higgs puts it: “Retinol speeds up cell turnover, allowing your skin to tackle early signs of ageing such as pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles as well as having an exfoliation effect too.”

However, it’s not always great for sensitive skin or those who suffer from eczema or rosacea. Pregnant and breastfeeding women should avoid it because of the risk vitamin A poses for birth defects (experts say the risk is low but it's still best to remove it from your regime). Retinol can also mean dryness, flakiness or irritation for some. Dr Dawes-Higgs recommends that you use an SPF 50+ sunscreen throughout the day when using retinol, which should be applied in the evening.

Transform Plus Retin-ALT Power Serum from Ole Henriksen.

Because it doesn’t work for everyone, skincare brands have experimented with retinol substitutes. The buzziest one right now is bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol is an extract from the Psoralea corylifolia plant, and is an ingredient often used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine. While it’s not structurally anything like a retinol, studies have shown it also stimulates collagen production, targets lines and wrinkles, and addresses firmness.

A 2018 study in the Journal of Dermatology found that bakuchiol’s effect on signs of skin ageing is comparable with that of retinol, and that it is better tolerated. It’s also safe for breastfeeding and lactating women (always check with your doctor first).

Brands harnessing the power of bakuchiol include Ole Henriksen. Founder Ole Henriksen calls it a “wonder ingredient” – it’s the hero ingredient in his Transform Plus Retin-ALT duo of a serum and night cream.

Ole Henriksen, founder of the eponymous skincare line, uses bakuchiol in his Transform Plus Retin-ALT serum and night cream.

“Globally, we’ve heard incredible feedback from people with sensitive skin especially, who have experienced very real skin transformations,” Henriksen says.

Other brands using bakuchiol include Votary (try the Intense Eye Oil-Tuberose and Retinoid), Biossance (try the Squalane + Phyto Retinol Serum) and Bybi with its bestselling Bakuchiol Booster. It combines one per cent bakuchiol (the highest concentration you can have in skincare) with 99 per cent skin-softening squalane (a skin-mimicking hydrator).

The founders of Bybi, Elsie Rutterford and Dominika Minarovic, are, understandably, huge fans.

Dominika Minarovic and Elsie Rutterford, founders of Bybi, a skincare brand.

“Not only is bakuchiol itself an antioxidant, but … bakuchiol is also capable of stimulating the body's antioxidant defence system. It therefore supports the prevention of long-term intrinsic ageing such as wrinkles and fine lines … Unlike retinol, bakuchiol doesn’t increase photosensitivity, so you can apply it after cleansing day or night,” says Minarovic.

Other alternatives to retinol

While bakuchiol is undoubtedly this year’s beauty buzzword, there are other ingredients to consider.

Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil from Tata Harper.

Rosehip oil

Rosehip is touted as an ingredient to rival retinol, and while there isn’t enough vitamin A to truly have the same effect, its combination of vitamins C and A will help even out your complexion and can help with scarring and stretch marks. We recommend Trilogy’s Rosehip Oil and Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Facial Oil.

Alpha H Liquid Gold, available at Sephora Hong Kong.

Licorice extract

This plant extract is known for evening out tone and smoothing skin. You can find it in bestselling products such as Australian brand Alpha-H’s Liquid Gold and Paula’s Choice 10 per cent Azelaic Acid Booster.

Omorovicza Rejuvenating Night Cream, available at Net-a-Porter.

Beta-carotene

Beta-carotene is an antioxidant and converts to vitamin A in the body, so it can have a retinoid-like effect. Find it in carrot oil and cacay oil. Try Omorovicza Rejuvenating Night Cream and Eve Lom Morning Time Cleanser.

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