Fashion retailers have implemented strict hygiene measures as they welcome back shoppers. At the Louis Vuitton store in Paris, for example, clothes that were tried on were set aside for 24 hours before being steamed and disinfected. American department stores such as Macy’s will also wait 24 hours after customers have tried on clothing before returning them to sales racks. While such stringent protocols may seem extreme, there is still plenty we do not know about the coronavirus and its relationship with textiles – especially fabrics that are used in our everyday clothing. According to the US Centres for Disease Control and Protection, the coronavirus is transmitted through droplets in people’s breath, which can be transferred to fabrics. How long the virus survives on specific materials is still being studied. “Each fabric performs differently and there hasn’t been extensive work done on the current strain of coronavirus and its relationship to soft surfaces such as textiles. What we do know is that there are certain textiles that are naturally antibacterial, such as wool, cashmere and silk,” says Edwin Keh, CEO of the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel. “Merino wool, for example, is being used as a high-performance material by brands such as Patagonia because it has a hostile surface on which bacteria cannot survive.” The jury is still out on which fabrics are more receptive to the virus; reports suggest that materials with smooth and shiny surfaces such as leather and vinyl are naturally repellent because they can be wiped clean easily. Since viruses are microbes, as are bacteria, the first line of defence for many consumers is to choose clothing made from materials that have natural antimicrobial properties. How to keep a cloth face mask clean amid coronavirus “Designers can approach the Covid-19 issue from different angles. One option is to use natural fibres such as seaweed, burlap, linen, bamboo and hemp. Not only are they more efficient and functional but they are naturally antibacterial,” says Valentina Xu, China CEO at Fashion Tech Lab, a company that invests in new materials and technology start-ups. “Then you have the option to use certain technologies to create new fabrics or treat materials [before or after] the manufacturing process.” The biggest users of such “smart” fabrics are sports and performance wear brands. Innovations that could be embraced by the fashion industry include materials treated with metals such as copper and silver, which have natural antimicrobial properties. Keh also singles out fabrics containing a small amount of a shellfish derivative called chitosan, which in the past has been applied to wounds to prevent infection. Applying antibacterial finishes to clothing is also becoming common. While these lose their effectiveness after multiple washings, they are popular for use on functional items such as shirts. Online menswear brand Determinant will be releasing a collection of essentials such as shirts and polos that have received an antibacterial treatment this summer, for example. We take care of our clothes – they do not take care of us. The pandemic will change what we are expecting from apparel. Edwin Keh, CEO of the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Dee Poon, managing director for brands and distribution of Esquel, which owns Determinant, points out that using antibacterial treatments on a mass scale can pose challenges. Getting the right certification is essential, and this may be costly, especially for independent brands and designers. “It doesn’t make sense to make every garment antibacterial to such a high standard. It is not just a manufacturing problem, but also a testing problem as the fabric needs to be certified. Then it comes down to the question of whether the consumer cares enough. Sure some people will like it, but will the consumer demand or pay money for it in the long term?” she says. Keh warns that dealing with the coronavirus is more complicated than dealing with bacteria. “The challenge right now is not just antibacterial fabrics; it’s having a fabric that’s antiviral. Viruses are smaller than bacteria and need to feed off another cell [to reproduce]. As such, designers should look for fabrics with surfaces that will stay dry and repel moisture,” Keh says. “The only effective materials against viruses are non-wovens, which are often uncomfortable, fragile and can break apart as soon as they get wet.” Felt is an example of a non-woven fabric. Shanghai-based designer Masha Ma has been reconsidering her production processes since the coronavirus outbreak began. Although she has implemented new manufacturing protocols – including sterilisation of her studio as well as of accessories and hardware, such as buttons – she hasn’t thought about sourcing new fabrics. “It really depends on the designer’s personal aesthetic and of course the market you’re appealing to. If your customer wants something high-functioning and performance-driven, only then will you investigate these types of hi-tech fabrics,” she says. “Most of the time luxury brands that create ready-to-wear don’t want to compromise on fit or feel of the item.” While avoiding certain fabrics may not be necessary in the long term, experts do agree the coronavirus may change the function of clothing. “I’ve said this on many occasions – apparel is one of the heaviest, dumbest and most expensive systems that we wear. Look at our cellphones, or even our watches – they [serve] more than just a single purpose,” says Keh. “We take care of our clothes – they do not take care of us. The pandemic will change what we are expecting from apparel. “There’s no reason why we can’t have clothes made from materials that inform us that we are in a high-bacterial-count environment. If brands are worried about their future, it is because they aren’t giving people reason for buying their clothes.”