Five niche sneaker brands placing function over fashion, from CrossFit fave Nobull to Hoka One One, loved by Britney Spears

Niche labels are focused on taking the sneaker back to its sporty roots with performance-driven styles – and some have famous fans such as Reese Witherspoon
Nobull’s stripped down shoes are often used by CrossFit fans, Swiss brand On is endorsed by athletes such as Roger Federer, and Ralph Lauren is a fan of Salomon

Fashion

Divia Harilela

Published: 4:30am, 30 Jun 2020

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Sneakers are ubiquitous in the fashion world, with offerings ranging from luxury brands to high street retailers.

It is easy to forget that this must-have fashion accessory was originally created for sports and other outdoor activities.

The category has now come full circle as niche labels take the sneaker back to its roots with styles that are still fashionable, but are performance-driven.

“I think most of the emerging brands are well aware that the marketplace for performance sneakers is fairly saturated, so many approach their collections with a far narrower remit – they also tend to have quite specific technical and performance requirements for the range, often appealing to a smaller range of sporting activities,” says Benjamin Carr, a buyer at online retailer matchesfashion.com.

Niche labels such as On are bringing the sneaker back to its sporting roots.

Unlike established names such as Nike and Adidas, these unisex brands do not necessarily offer an extensive range of styles. What they lack in variety, they make up for in function. For example, APL (Athletic Propulsion Labs) was created by two former university athletes whose patented technology was once banned by the National Basketball Association in the United States because it gave players an unfair advantage.

Italian hiking brand ROA is favoured by mountaineers because its shoes are designed for rough terrain and come with additional features such as water-repellent fabrics and heels made using fibres found in bulletproof vests. Brandblack, founded by Adidas and Fila alum David Raysee, makes professional models for big league basketball players.

While performance is high on the list, many of these styles still look good – even if they aren’t catwalk worthy.

“The appeal with some of these brands is that their technical nature means they have a specific customer base – they are not ubiquitous in the fashion marketplace. There is something to be said when you find a sneaker brand you haven’t seen on one of your peers and, of course, this enhances the appeal. It’s a stealth, considered purchase,” says Carr.

Here are five niche sports shoe brands worth checking out.

Hoka One One

US brand Hoka One One was founded by footwear alums looking to reinvent the running shoe. Their maximalist styles are known for terrain-friendly, oversized midsoles and modern materials.

They have attracted hip collaborators such as Opening Ceremony, Engineered Garments and Outdoor Voices, they have celebrity fans in stars such as Reese Witherspoon and Britney Spears, and their emphasis on comfort and technology means many of their shoes are endorsed by doctors and athletes.

Keen

The US state of Oregon may have brought us Nike, but it is also where cult label Keen is headquartered. Although the brand is better known in Asia for its Croc-like Uneek (pronounced unique), it started out in 2003 with the sailing-inspired Newport sandal, which features a rubber toe bumper for protection.

Since then, Keen has launched multiple styles for various outdoor activities or to brave the elements in (such as their cold footwear collection). While the jury is still out on their looks, their shoes are loved and revered thanks to Keen’s focus on comfort and function.

Nobull

If you are a fan of CrossFit, chances are you have heard of Nobull. Founded in 2015 by a group of fitness lovers – some of whom previously worked at sportswear giant Reebok – the company specialises in shoes for training athletes. As its name suggests, its minimalist designs are free from bells and whistles. Instead the brand focuses on stripped-down, high-quality shoes that are stable and durable.

Bestsellers include the simply named “Trainer”, which features a seamless, one-piece upper made from a flexible mesh fabric covered in raised resin dots.

Most of the shoes On sells are engineered in Switzerland and boast a cushioned sole.

On was founded in the Swiss city of Zurich in 2010 by three friends with a passion for endurance sports – one is a three-time world duathlon champion and multiple Ironman winner.

Most of its styles are engineered in Switzerland and boast a cushioned, cloudlike sole. On’s shoes have been endorsed by the likes of tennis star Roger Federer. Its expertise can be seen in its many patented, award-winning technologies including its Speedboard midsole that can bend upon landing and immediately returns to its original shape upon take-off.

Must-have styles include On’s first design, the Cloudnova, and the Cloudswift, a super popular and stylish running shoe.

Salomon

Salomon is not new – the French brand has been around since the late 1940s – but it continues to make a name for itself thanks to its wide appeal. It originally targeting runners, skiers and hikers, but the brand has more recently garnered a cult following in the fashion world, and is available at hip boutiques such as Dover Street Market and The Broken Arm in Paris. It has collaborated with the likes of hip Japanese label Undercover.

The Speedcross running shoes is one of its most iconic styles – American fashion designer Ralph Lauren is a fan – along with its Black Edition shoes.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: The sneaker’s rise, from gym to street to stylish accessory

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