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Seattle-based designer Tiffany Ju wants customers to know that accessories from her brand Chunks are ‘proudly made in China’.

‘There’s sweatshops in America … there’s ethical production in China. It’s not black and white.’ US accessories designer on making her goods in China

  • Any customer who discovers Chunks through Instagram will clearly know designer Tiffany Ju’s hair barrettes, clips and eyewear are products of China
  • Ju made a conscious effort to ensure consumers understand this, as innovative Chinese manufacturers continue to grow in prestige and status
Fashion

It all started with a futile quest for a hair claw.

“I just wanted a cute claw,” says Seattle-based accessories designer and artist Tiffany Ju, “which is impossible to find. You just can’t find one. It's nowhere.”

Ju is a master of many trades, including moulding and weaving textiles into curvy shapes that protrude and dangle from their form in mesmerising patterns, using weft yarn from leftover hand-dyed nylon fabric.

A graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York, the Korean-American entrepreneur went viral with her B.Z.R. Shop, founded in 2012, which featured hand-dyed ombre tights in yummy shades. Chunks is a delightfully on-trend accessories shop Ju founded last year that looks like it was made for Instagram, its products a playful explosion of squiggles and colours.

 

For years, she toured craft shows and art fairs in the Seattle area, selling creative goods that blended her passion for making art and upcycling materials. But crafting a claw called for a different set of skills. This time, she sketched out her ideas – literally painted shapes on a piece of paper – and sent them to a factory to be produced in China.

This is a process brands of all sizes and product ranges go through, but one that is rarely mentioned except in fine print on a small label or tag. But for Chunks, it’s an unmissable part of the brand messaging; any customer that discovers it through Instagram will know Ju’s hair barrettes, clips and eyewear are “proudly made in China”.

Chunks’ hair claws and clips, designed by Seattle-based accessories designer and artist Ju.
Her declaration may come as a surprise to some. The ‘Made in China’ label has a poor reputation among many Americans, who associate it with cheap, low-quality goods. Ju rejected the notion that this should be a source of discomfort for her brand, however.

“I just knew that I didn’t want to hide it,” she says. “Going to a lot of craft shows and being in this world of handmade stuff, I've been in this world of ‘proudly made in the US’ – it's all handmade, it’s not mass manufactured. That’s great, but then on the flip side of that there is this weird, implied shame about the other side of it.”

The stigmatisation of Made in China arises from China being simultaneously one of the world’s fastest developing nations and its largest manufacturing hub.

Ju rejects the idea that saying her accessories are made in China is bad for her brand.
Even for Chinese consumers, those three words didn’t always have positive connotations; incidents like the 2008 melamine-tainted milk scandal, which laid bare major problems with quality control and safety standards, went a long way towards fostering a preference among China’s middle class for buying imported goods.
In recent years, however, the narrative has been changing rapidly. From technology to fashion, new meaning has been accorded the Made in China label, which has gained prestige and status through innovative brands such as electronics maker Xiaomi and social media platform WeChat, and fashion designers such as Sean Suen and Huishan Zhang.
US-based shops such as Chop Suey Club celebrate Chinese artistry and heritage by lifting up designed-in-China goods, while young consumers in China take pride in championing domestic brands. The Covid-19 pandemic may have accelerated this trend, with 87 per cent of respondents in a recent poll by Kantar saying they preferred products made locally.
A selection of hair claws and clips designed by Ju and made in China.

In an industry where US consumers increasingly want to know where products are made, many fashion brands are being forthcoming about their manufacturing processes in China, including companies built around sustainable production such as Baggu and Everlane. Yet, while a passion for Chinese-made goods has taken hold among young shoppers in China, it doesn’t have the same appeal for many Americans.

A May poll of 1,012 adults conducted by Washington-based FTI consulting revealed around 40 per cent of Americans would not buy products from China.

Tensions between the United States and China, inflamed by their trade war and the coronavirus pandemic, have played a role in this negative sentiment in recent months. Recent headlines about manufacturing in China may have reinforced negative stereotypes – international trade associations have been grappling with phantom sellers and scammers exporting faulty and uncertified personal protective equipment and ventilators for hospitals treating Covid-19 patients.

Ju is a graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York and a master of many trades.

For Ju, transparency helps reduce such distrust, and her openness about the source of her products has prompted conversations about the pros and cons of working with Chinese factories. For one thing, it’s easier than one might expect.

“I think it seems like this mysterious thing to a lot of people – I just went to Alibaba and messaged some people, and after a few years, you get better and better at it.” (Alibaba, a business-to-business marketplace, is owned by Alibaba Group, which also owns the Post.)

With agreeable margins and a productive relationship with the Chinese factory that manufactures Chunks products, Ju has been able to stay true to her goal of reducing waste. Her hair clips are made with acetate, which Ju says is preferable to acrylic or plastic because it has a shorter lifespan.

“All the acetate that is left over from production, they're able to get back to the manufacturer who makes the acetate to reuse,” she says. “I also don’t waste flawed products, which a lot of brands do, to get things 100 per cent perfect. There are a lot of throw-outs in the industry if something’s not made exactly right.”

Ju’s hair clips are made with acetate, which she says is preferable to acrylic or plastic because it has a shorter lifespan.

Her “Proudly made in China” message has elicited positive reactions from customers most of the time, Ju says, but her Instagram feed still attracts sceptics who press the entrepreneur on factory conditions and worker pay.

Ju says such conversations are usually too complicated to do justice to on an Instagram feed, and she is right. Headlines in recent years have simultaneously shown two realities; in one, workers at a factory producing clothing for Ivanka Trump's former fashion label endured long hours and pay below the minimum wage, while in another, more artisanal factories manufacture sustainable and elegant goods in a high-quality and safe environment.

“In any national industry, there are going to be so many different issues,” she says. “There’s sweatshops in America, there’s sweatshops in New York City, and there’s ethical production in China. It’s just not a black-and-white situation.”

 

Ju sees her brand messaging as an evolving story as Chunks grows, and she is working on more ways to fulfil her commitment to responsible manufacturing in areas such as packaging, as well as encouraging more conversation about the ins and outs of production in China.

The positive image of “Made in China” – the one makers like Ju want people to see – flourishes in the dozens of hip buyer shops and concept stores in China that offer a creative generation unique brands and designs. Soon, Chunks will be among them too, with the opening of a boutique in Fujian province in the country’s southeast.

“I think people are just seeing the stigma that we hold around it in a more clear light,” Ju says. “And I can see them almost in real-time starting to question it.”

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: American label’s goods ‘Proudly goods are Made in China’
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