Hyperpigmentation is a common problem. The beauty industry offers a variety of solutions, from invasive laser treatments to topical beauty products aimed at “brightening the skin”. Experts suggest that the first step in tackling this common issue is identifying the type of pigmentation you are suffering from. “Hyperpigmentation is a catch-all term that covers a number of different complaints, but I see three conditions more than any other in my clinic,” says London-based dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting. “Melasma is a disorder of pigmentation influenced by our genetics but often triggered by changes in hormones , UV and visible exposure. It’s most commonly seen in women who tan easily, in a map-like pattern on the forehead, cheekbones and upper lip. I also see a lot of post-acne marks which are essentially the hyperpigmented footprints of pre-existing blemishes,” she says. “The final common cause is sun damage, leading to what we call solar lentigines, or sun spots – these are fixed round brown flat areas that don’t change much through the year,” Bunting says. Solar lentigines – the result of prolonged exposure to the sun’s UVA rays – tend to be the most common type among women, especially in Asia. While many dermatologists recommend various laser treatments to tackle the issue, topical treatments can be equally effective. “I did think about pursuing laser but the costs are relatively high and it involves a course of treatments. When I started to do some research, I discovered a few key products that would give similar results to laser treatments. I liked the fact that I had an alternative that could be just as good, but was also price conscious,” says educator Victoria Ho, who has suffered from sunspots for most of her adult life. How to Marie Kondo your beauty and skincare products Experts agree that the first line of defence when it comes to sunspots is sunscreen . This is because pigment cells known as melanocytes are activated by sunlight, thereby triggering melanin production, which causes the skin to darken. Bunting recommends formulas containing iron oxide, which is one of the few “recognised” ingredients to fight against visible light, and in particular high energy blue light, which can cause melanocytes to be overactive. This can be combined with antioxidants like vitamin C or bakuchiol , which can neutralise the effects of aggressive free radicals such as pollution. Aside from sunscreen, it is also advisable for women to develop an effective skincare regimen incorporating a range of active ingredients to control and suppress melanocyte function, stopping pigmentation in its tracks. “Apart from sunscreen, retinol would be my next pick. Other pigment inhibitors include hydroquinone (HQ), arbutin, botanicals and kojic acid. With all of these actives it is important that patients start gradually, for example apply the product every second night and increase as tolerated,” says Australian-based laser and aesthetics dermatologist Dr Davin Lim. Although rather controversial (it is banned or only available by prescriptions in some countries), topical hydroquinone – a skin lightening cream – is one of the few clinically studied, evidence-backed ingredients that target an enzyme called tyrosinase, suppressing melanocyte function. Bunting will usually prescribe her clients a formula of around 4 per cent, along with strict guidelines on how to use the cream. A safer but equally effective alternative is azelaic acid at a strength of around five to 20 per cent, which Bunting advises patients use in rotation with hydroquinone. Most products do take a minimum of six to eight weeks before a change can be seen Dr David Lim, dermatologist “Once you’ve controlled the melanin production, you can then look at controlling the melanin transfer into the skin cells, and the most notable ingredient for doing this is niacinamide. One of its key benefits is to reduce the activity of the ‘conveyor belt’ of melanin being exported into our skin,” she explains. Women should also consider incorporating a product that helps speed up cell and epidermal turnover, such as exfoliating agents like AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) and/or retinoids. “I started using hydroquinone on its own and I did have some irritation to start with. I then incorporated AHA once a day, a retinoid, and a high strength vitamin C. I noticed that the combination of these three plus hydroquinone were especially effective in lightening my dark spots,” says Ho. Ayurvedic cosmetics are a thing – it isn’t just about medicine or food When it comes to seeing results, experts advise that women stick to their chosen regimen for at least three months. “Most products do take a minimum of six to eight weeks before a change can be seen. Some of these products, such as arbutin kojic acid, and botanicals can be applied long term without any safety concerns. Hydroquinone on the other hand will need specialist supervision,” advises Lim. Bunting says: “Many of those ingredients, if carefully chosen, can also tackle those other key causes of why we lose our glow. Niacinamide will boost skin barrier function and improve hydration, azelaic acid will improve texture, as will AHAs; and retinoids and bakuchiol will improve the quality of your dermis. “Azelaic acid will reduce redness. You can target a very specific concern, but also get a lot of upside in terms of the general appearance and radiance of your skin.” Five products to help fight against hyperpigmentation 1. 10% Azelaic Acid Booster by Paula’s Choice This cream gel formula contains a high percentage of azelaic acid alongside exfoliating agents such as salicylic acid to smooth the skin. It also features natural ingredients such as licorice, which has been said to brighten the skin, while allantoin and bisabolol prevent irritation and soothe the complexion. paulaschoice.hk 2. C E Ferulic by Skinceuticals A bestseller and favourite among dermatologists, this serum contains a cocktail of antioxidants such as vitamins C, E and ferulic acid to neutralise free radicals and boost collagen while protecting the skin against environmental ageing and aggressors. The company says each application remains effective for a minimum of 72 hours. skinceuticals.com.hk 3. Flawless Brightly Serum by Dr. Sam Bunting This silky serum contains a blend of antioxidants and pigment suppressors. Key ingredients include azelaic acid, niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside and bakuchiol to even out skin tone and calm the skin. drsambunting.com 4. Concentrated Brightening Serum by Tata Harper Free from synthetic chemicals and other fillers, this brightening and tone correcting solution is part of Tata Harper’s luxe, anti-ageing Supernaturals range. It uses highly active natural ingredients such as fermented sugar peptides and encapsulated plankton to target dullness, dark spots and uneven skin tone, leaving the complexion smooth. Available at Joyce Beauty 5. Resurfacing Compound by U Beauty A new kid on the skincare block and now a cult product, this “clean” formula was developed to visibly resurface the skin’s appearance without irritation, while targeting visible pores and dark spots using ingredients like retinol and vitamin C. It also features US Siren capsule technology that effectively neutralises free radicals. Available at net-a-porter.com