What is skinimalism? The ‘less is more’ skincare trend taking over the beauty industry

According to one report, skinimalism marks the end of ‘caked-on make-up’ in favour of a simple, sustainable, ‘effortlessly chic’ routine
Ten-step routines are being pared down and there is a movement towards home-made skincare and science-backed ingredients

Beauty

Divia Harilela

Published: 8:45pm, 17 Feb 2021

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Beauty trends come and go, but one set to turn the industry on its head in 2021, according to social media platform Pinterest, is skinimalism. The movement, highlighted in its Trend Prediction Report, refers to how women are embracing a more sustainable, pared-down beauty routine, one that has been gaining momentum since the start of the pandemic.

“Everyone is now focusing on what is essential in our daily lives and wellness is a big part of that,” says Niamh O’Connell, group vice-president of wellness at Rosewood Hotel Group. “A recent report by Agility Research showed the rise of a new set of consumer values post-pandemic that are centred around sustainability and driven by millennials and Generation Z.

“They are not looking for brands that are fancy and over-the-top – they want authenticity and transparency, and this will impact the skincare industry, which has traditionally adopted a glossier approach to promoting products in categories such as anti-ageing, for example. Now, consumers want clarity and truth behind their skincare.”

According to the Pinterest Report, skinimalism marks the end of the “caked-on make-up look” in favour of a “new ‘effortlessly chic’ routine [that] is simple and sustainable”.

Niamh O’Connell is the group vice-president of wellness at Rosewood Hotel Group.

While this may prove worrying for beauty companies used to marketing multiple products a year, industry insiders say this was a long time coming.

“I have been telling my clients this for over 35 years – if you look at our basic skin physiology and anatomy, it shows that our skin cells can only absorb so much,” advises celebrity facialist Joanna Czech. “If you follow, let’s say, a 10-step routine at night, by the time you get to the final step your skin won’t be able to absorb half of the product you have already applied. You are just piling it on. What is important is when you use your product, how you use it and the sequence of steps you follow. I believe you don’t need more than five products per routine.”

Skincare 101: why you should never neglect your body care

Czech advocates that women spend more time and effort on their nighttime routine – she estimates that products are 60 per cent less effective when applied in the morning – as the skin regenerates and rejuvenates as we sleep.

Mornings can be kept simple – a cleanser and moisturiser will suffice, while sunscreen should be applied depending on your needs and the climate you live in (she also points out that overuse of sunscreen is a cause of vitamin D deficiency).

In the evening, women should add a toner after cleansing, preferably one that balances the skin’s pH so that it can absorb products that follow effectively, and a serum before moisturising. Choose one that targets your specific concern, be it acne or pigmentation. The trick is choosing the right serum and applying it at the right time.

“I prefer serums that address a maximum one or two problems as opposed to products that promise to do it all. This means you can own as many serums as you like but alternate how and when you use them,” Czech says.

“So, for example, Mondays and Thursdays will be your brightening nights, while Tuesdays and Fridays will be for hydrating. Target different concerns on separate days so you can streamline your routine. Using specific products two to three times a week will still give you good results as long as the product is good.”

High-quality formulas are part of the parcel, which means that women should be on the lookout for “clean products” that do not contain toxic chemicals or ingredients. In the past this meant choosing “organic” or “natural” ingredients. Now that the consumer is more educated, the next step is to look for science-backed ingredients that are gentle yet effective.

“Not everything in nature is good for you, so you shouldn’t just assume that something labelled 100 per cent organic or natural is the best product,” says Irene Forte, founder of her own natural skincare line and wellness director at Rocco Forte Hotels.

“For example, I am not a huge fan of essential oils because they are full of allergens, and over time can cause lots of skin issues. I believe in nature shaped by science, which means naturally derived ingredients that have been tested and studied to be effective on the skin.”

The Pinterest report also highlighted a movement towards home-made skincare, although both Czech and Forte say you should proceed with caution when using kitchen staples in your skincare routine. While certain ingredients such as jojoba oil or natural honey have been used for centuries, many have not been tested in a laboratory for topical use.

Irene Forte, is the wellness director at Rocco Forte Hotels.

“There are so many factors you need to know such as how the ingredient was extracted, or purified to ensure that it’s still active but not highly allergenic. For this reason, women should avoid experimenting too much,” says Forte.

Another tried-and-tested method that can create a natural glow is facial exercises, or face yoga, which has spurned countless of do-it-yourself videos on YouTube.

While gadgets such as gua shas and face rollers are common, people are becoming increasingly interested in facial massage techniques that can be done in the comfort of their own homes.

While gadgets such as face rollers are common, people are becoming increasingly interested in facial massage techniques that can be done at home.

“When clients first experience my facial massage, they worry that I am breaking their skin,” says Czech, who is renowned for her signature massage technique. “Remember two things when you’re massaging your face: treat muscles like a dough and treat skin like a sponge. If you use the right technique, you will immediately see brighter, plump skin. But like anything it has to be done repeatedly – I suggest twice a day to see an accumulative effect. Otherwise, try it four to six times a week. It’s like eating healthy – you don’t just do it occasionally.”

One thing all the experts can agree on is that glowing skin isn’t just about what you are applying on your skin. As skinimalism continues to spread, so will awareness on the importance of lifestyle habits and how they affect skin long term.

“Sleep is the most fundamental thing to achieving good skin,” Forte says. “I never jeopardise sleep for work or exercise. I also keep hydrated – I drink three litres of water a day, avoid refined sugars and keep my diet simple, clean and seasonal. Eat foods are rich in omega oils – be kind to your skin always and you are guaranteed to glow.”

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