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Don’t pop pimples with your fingers - clear the skin with an alcohol swab, put on gloves, poke a tiny hole in the centre and squeeze upwards with two Q-tips to avoid infecting the area, one expert says. Photo: Shutterstock

Explainer | Acne treatment myths busted, from breakouts caused by greasy foods and make-up to popping spots and toothpaste to make them go away

  • Acne is becoming increasingly common for adults, perhaps because of a combination of hormonal fluctuations, diet and stress, one doctor says
  • Covering your pimple in toothpaste has gone viral on social media but it can actually irritate your skin – instead, consider using a hydrocolloid pimple patch
Beauty

Teenagers are the only ones who are prone to breakouts, and washing your face frequently can clear zits faster.

These are only some of the many myths we’ve heard about our skin.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne is the most common skin condition in the United States. Yet there are many misconceptions about how it should be treated. Is toothpaste really an overnight cure for that pesky pimple? Does your diet cause your breakouts?

In honour of Acne Awareness Month in June, three skincare experts are setting the record straight and debunking mistaken beliefs about our skin.

Acne in general is becoming increasingly common for adults, specifically women, Dr Joshua Zeichner from Mount Sinai Hospital in New York says. Photo: Shutterstock

Only teenagers get acne

While teenagers are most vulnerable to hormonal acne, Dr Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, says acne in general is becoming increasingly common for adults, more specifically women.

“In some cases, patients may have never had any breakouts at all during adolescence. We don’t quite understand why this is happening, but it likely has to do with a combination of hormonal fluctuations, diet and stress.”

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Wash your face more for less acne

Even those who wash their face regularly and follow a strict beauty regimen are susceptible to breakouts. Cassandra Bankson, a medical aesthetician with more than 1 million YouTube subscribers, says constantly washing your face can actually exacerbate existing acne.

“Your skin has an acid mantle which protects your skin. If you overly wash your skin, you can tear that off and it can cause you to break out more and have a damaged skin barrier.”

Dr Muneeb Shah, a dermatology resident doctor with more than 3 million TikTok followers, emphasises that having acne is not in anyone’s control.

“It doesn’t have to do with hygiene. It doesn’t have to do with how much water you drink. So it’s important to de-stigmatise the fact that acne is not the person’s fault.”

Pop your pimples so they go away faster

Is it a good idea to pop a pimple on your own? Shah says no.

“It’s better to resist the urge, because if the pimple is deep, it’ll rupture deep underneath your skin which can leave a lot of inflammation and even scarring,” he says. However, if you are going to pop a zit at home, Shah says it’s best to do so when you can clearly see the pus of the whitehead.

“Clear the skin with an alcohol swab, put on gloves, poke a tiny hole in the centre and squeeze upwards with two Q-tips to avoid infecting the area,” Shah recommends.

A skincare expert shares tips for a healthy acne-free face

Greasy foods and dairy make you break out

Though greasy foods like French fries and pizza along with dairy are commonly associated with acne, it’s important to remember correlation does not equate to causation.

“It’s a myth that greasy foods cause acne breakouts, unless the grease gets on your fingers which then touches your face,” Zeichner says, noting that foods high in sugar and starch have been associated with breakouts.

However, Bankson cautions that not everyone’s skin will react this way to certain foods.

“There are some people who are sensitive or allergic to dairy or oily foods which may cause irritation to the skin. But it’s not an overarching thing for everyone.”

 

Toothpaste on your zit makes it go away

Though this hack of covering your pimple in toothpaste has gone viral on social media, it can actually irritate your skin. According to Shah, this acne myth originated when toothpaste used to contain an antibacterial agent called triclosan, which was removed from most toothpastes in 2019.

“Now that it doesn’t have that antibacterial agent, it’s more likely to irritate the skin since toothpaste is made for your mouth and to remove plaque off your teeth,” he says.

A safer alternative to getting rid of a pimple overnight would be hydrocolloid pimple patches – a transparent bandage-like dressing for wounds.

“They keep you from picking your pimple while also sucking out that goop from the zit.”

Forget toothpaste – a safer alternative to getting rid of a pimple overnight would be hydrocolloid pimple patches, says dermatology resident doctor Muneeb Shah.

Face mapping predicts breakout causes

Face mapping refers to the idea that the location of zits on your face can indicate the cause. For instance, breaking out on your nose indicates heart problems while breaking out on your cheek indicates stomach issues.

This, too, is a myth.

“When you think about our body, it works as an entire system. Our lungs get us oxygen which goes to the blood and brain. If our heart stops working, so does everything else. The same goes for our skin,” Bankson says. “So, just because you’re having gastrointestinal issues or kidney issues does not mean it’s going to show up in a certain place on your face.”

Acne: why some adults have it and how to treat it

Make-up makes a breakout worse

Heavy foundation or concealer is not the cause of acne. However, experts say it’s the clogged pores created by wearing make-up overnight that can contribute to those pesky zits.

“If your make-up is creating a film on your skin and you’re wearing it in your sleep then, yes, it can lead to clogged pores, which often cause irritation and breakouts. But make-up itself is not the cause of acne,” Bankson says, reminding readers to properly take off their make-up before going to bed.

Heavy foundation is not the cause of acne, it’s the clogged pores created by wearing make-up overnight that can contribute to zits, medical aesthetician Cassandra Bankson says. Photo: Shutterstock

The sun will clear up your skin

This is both true and false. Zeichner acknowledges that the sun’s UV light exposure does have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, but the risks associated with it outweigh the potential benefits of temporarily clearing your skin.

“I do not recommend sitting in the sun to clear up your acne. We have very effective acne treatments that contain ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and topical retinoids – all of which make your skin more sensitive to UV rays. So if you are using them, it is even more important to wear sunscreen and protect yourself from the sun.”

How to treat adult acne, and the new ‘maskne’

Clean, natural beauty products are always better

Many of us have been warned chemicals are bad. But Bankson says this statement is problematic and misleading.

“There are definitely things that do and don’t belong on our face and on our skin, but everything is a chemical – including water and air. So not all chemicals are bad in skincare, and just because a product says ‘clean’ or ‘natural’ doesn’t mean it’s better for acne.”

Some acne fighting ingredients she recommends include salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and sulphur.

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