Get more with myNEWS
A personalised news feed of stories that matter to you
Learn more
A young woman wears Korean glitter make-up. There is a trend away from the complicated routines of Korean beauty treatments, and a focus on skincare rather than beauty regimes when many women have been stuck at home during the coronavirus pandemic. Photo: Shutterstock

Korean skincare loses its edge as Chinese embrace luxury Western brands and global customers seek simpler routines

  • While K-pop and K-dramas are still going strong, the shine is wearing off K-beauty – Korean skincare is increasingly seen as too complicated and convoluted
  • Chinese consumers are buying Western and Japanese brands in Hainan instead of going to South Korea, and Sephora no longer promotes K-beauty like before

When hallyu, or the Korean wave, was at its height, it felt as if the cultural dominance of South Korea almost rivalled that of the United States.

K-pop was blaring out of bars, K-dramas were some of the most watched television shows in Asia and K-beauty was beloved across the globe. Seoul’s soft power was anything but subtle. But while K-pop and K-dramas are still going strong, the same cannot be said of K-beauty.

Korean beauty conglomerate Amorepacific is pulling major brand Innisfree from the US and China, Sephora has stopped promoting K-beauty with the fervour it once did, and Korean cosmetic imports to China are growing at a slower rate than ever before.

According to data released by the Foundation of Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute in May, exports of Korean beauty brands to China increased by 14 per cent in 2019 to US$3 billion. The average annual increase between 2013 and 2018 in contrast was 41 per cent.

Innisfree is being pulled from the US and China by Korean beauty conglomerate Amorepacific. Photo: Shutterstock
The shine of Korean products began to wear off around the time of the Thaad missile crisis in 2017. That was the year when tensions over the deployment of the US missile system on the Korean peninsula led to China banning its citizens from travelling to South Korea in groups and restricting the import of South Korean goods.

“At the time, the Chinese government was trying to influence consumer perception on both the culture and quality perception fronts – working to diminish the influence of Korean celebrities in China by banning K-pop stars, and refusing the import of 19 Korean cosmetics products based on quality control issues,” says Liz Flora, the former head of Asia research for intelligence firm L2.

“This is because it knows that Chinese consumers are savvy and won’t necessarily see a brand as lower quality just because of a political boycott.”

Five viral beauty trends that K-pop idols started

The crisis has had far-reaching consequences for K-beauty in China. During the time that Chinese visitors were banned from travelling to Korea in groups, many began shopping on Hainan Island – where prestigious Western and Japanese brands were sold duty-free at a lower price. This trend increased with the arrival of coronavirus and a nearly 14-month ban on international travel.

“Companies are having to fill the gap caused by the tourists who have ceased their travel plans to South Korea,” explains South Korean fashion and beauty writer Yeo In-hae. “Risk management must be in place, as being heavily dependent on Chinese money or tourists has long been an issue that is raised constantly in South Korea. The last few years alone show how dangerous that can be.”

Then there is the fact that everything that once made K-beauty a global obsession – quirky marketing, convoluted beauty routines and colourful make-up – no longer fits with current trends.

The Ordinary sells affordable products packed with active ingredients in deliberately plain boxes.

An increase in beauty influencers and cosmetics fan pages has meant customers around the world are increasingly interested in the science behind beauty products.

A decade ago, few knew about hyaluronic acids, retinol and the impact of vitamin C on skincare routines. Now, brands assume their customers are highly literate in these terms and are actively looking for products with these ingredients.

In the West, this has led to brands like The Ordinary – which sells affordable products packed with active ingredients in deliberately plain boxes – doubling its profits in the past year. K-beauty, with its colourful packaging, fun marketing ploys and often opaque ingredients lists, falls into an entirely different, and currently less desirable, category.

K-pop band Red Velvet at a beauty event at The Shilla Duty Free Shop in Seoul, South Korea.

Similarly, K-beauty lines tend to be at the medium and lower end of the price scale, and this sector hasn’t grown as quickly during the pandemic as more expensive brands. This is largely because customers have invested the money they would usually have spent on dining out and travel in beauty products, with skincare hugely outperforming make-up in a year when people have been largely staying at home.

Bigger-budget brands also have more money to make skincare breakthroughs and, as a result, K-beauty has had fewer innovations than many of its international rivals.

This lack of innovation and the focus on marketing rather than ingredients has also made it easier to plagiarise. In 2019, South Korea’s Nature Republic sued more than 50 beauty companies for using its intellectual property, illustrating the extent to which K-beauty has been losing customers to fake brands.

In South Korea, coronavirus has slowed K-beauty’s billionaire boom

The maximalist element of K-beauty has also lost its lustre. Five years ago, any article on Korean products was likely to praise the 10-step regimes they promoted. This felt like something new and exotic in the West in particular, where customers had been bred on a simple diet of cleanser, toner, moisturiser. Influencers on social media made videos about their lengthy regimens and viewers were captivated by these routines.

There has been a backlash against this convoluted form of skincare, and customers are now looking for single products that do a lot of the legwork. Known as “skinimalism”, this trend is growing around the world, and has resulted in the growth of a number of brands that offer only two or three formulas designed to take care of all your skin’s needs.

In many ways, this had to happen. K-beauty grew too quickly in too short a space of time. The level of popularity it achieved could never last – an inevitability that was heightened by the unexpected impact of a political crisis and a global pandemic.

That being said, K-beauty – with its innovative brands and powerful global influencers – isn’t going anywhere. It just needs a 10-step plan of its own to weather the next few years.