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Retinol products, unlike more potent forms of retinoids, don’t need a prescription and can be used to improve your skin health.

Explainer | Can retinol improve your skin? Yes, it reduces acne and makes you look younger – here’s how to use it in your skincare routine

  • Retinol triggers the skin cells of the top layer of the skin to turn over faster so that new cells can generate. This results in smoother and more even-looking skin
  • It is effective in treating both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and also helps to brighten dull skin
Beauty

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used to treat acne and reduce wrinkles. It is one of the many types of retinoids – an umbrella term used for vitamin A derivatives.

Retinoids come in a variety of strengths and are known by different names, but retinol is the most common. It is weaker than most retinoids and usually added to over-the-counter products. These don’t need a prescription, unlike more potent forms of retinoids.

Here’s what you need to know about how retinol works and the benefits it can have for your skin.

How does retinol work?

Retinol works by triggering the skin cells of the top layer of the skin to turn over faster so that new cells can generate. This results in smoother and more even-looking skin.

Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum from Kiehl’s.
It increases the production of natural chemicals such as hyaluronic acid which helps to keep the skin moist and plump. Retinol also boosts collagen production and prevents the breakdown of existing collagen.

“Retinol doesn’t become biologically active until it is transformed into retinoic acid once it’s inside the skin,” says Suzanne Friedler, a board-certified dermatologist who is a clinical instructor at Mount Sinai Medical Centre and on the dermatology faculty at St John’s Episcopal Medical Centre, both in New York.

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1. It reduces the appearance of acne

According to research published in the Journal of Clinical Dermatology and Therapy, clinical data from thousands of people shows that retinol is highly effective in treating both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne. It was proved to reduce the visibility of pimples on the skin and also stop the development of new pimples and acne blemishes.

One way retinol can improve the appearance of acne is by encouraging cell turnover, says Lindsey Bordone, a dermatologist at Columbia Doctors and assistant professor of dermatology at Columbia University Irving Medical Centre in New York. Acne develops when dead skin cells and oil collect inside hair follicles on your face. With retinol, those cells are shed and replaced more quickly.

“It also decreases oil production in these cells by binding to the specific receptors for retinol within the cells of the skin,” says Bordone. Decreased oil production stops oil blocking your pores and helps to prevent acne. “To make sure you clear up your acne and keep it clear, we usually recommend three months of use to get to your optimal results.”

Shani Darden Retinol Reform, available at Net-a-Porter.

2. It’s an anti-ageing treatment

Retinol works as an anti-ageing treatment in three major ways. It reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, helps with sun damage and gets rid of dark spots.

Collagen is a protein made by our body that keeps our skin looking smooth. Wrinkles and fine lines are caused by a decrease in collagen production. Retinol works by boosting blood flow to the skin, which increases the production of collagen. This helps to improve the appearance by thickening the inner layer of the skin.
It helps with sun damage and dark spots by encouraging skin cell turnover, allowing you to shed discoloured skin cells. But retinol also makes you more susceptible to sun damage. This is why retinol products should only be used at night, with a broad-spectrum sunscreen each morning, even when you are indoors.
Retinol has been proven to reduce the visibility of pimples on the skin. Photo: Shutterstock

A 2000 study, published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, studied the effect of applying retinol on aged skin in 53 participants who were aged 80 or older. Researchers observed that retinol, applied for seven days, led to a reduction in the breakdown of collagen and an increase in collagen production. They concluded that this showed that retinol could be effective as an anti-ageing treatment.

If you are using retinol for its anti-ageing properties, continuous use is encouraged. “With anti-ageing, retinol use should be a continual process, because you are constantly trying to turn back the hands of time. It can help with sunspots, fine lines and wrinkles, but it’s something you want to continue using for years,” says Bordone. It might take three to six months of regular use to see an improvement.

Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum from Kiehl’s.

3. Retinol brightens dull skin

Retinol also helps to brighten dull skin, which can be caused by several things including pregnancy, stress, sun damage, poor lifestyle habits like smoking and drinking alcohol in excess, or environmental pollution.

Retinol works by calming down the skin cells that produce melanin, a dark pigment. These cells are responsible for skin conditions like melasma, which causes discolouration of the skin. Retinol causes skin cell turnover so the skin becomes healthier and looks brighter.

Retinol helps to brighten dull skin, which can be caused by things like stress, sun damage and poor habits. Photo: Shutterstock

A 2016 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology studied the effect of a product which contained 0.5 per cent retinol on 25 people with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation. By week four, participants showed an improvement. Researchers determined that the product worked well for skin brightening, especially when used with a complementary skincare routine that includes sunscreen.

While mild flaking and redness occurred early in the study, by week 10 participants reported no stinging, itching, dryness or tingling.

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How to use retinol

Here’s how to add retinol to your daily skincare routine:

  • Wash your face with a gentle cleanser

  • When your skin is dry, apply a pea-sized amount of retinol treatment on your face

  • Use a light moisturiser afterwards to prevent dryness

  • Only use retinol treatments at night and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen the morning after

Our takeaway

Retinol has many skincare benefits. However, it can be drying and irritating for people with sensitive skin. If this is you, start with a product that has a low concentration of retinol, and use it once or twice a week. As your skin grows more tolerant, you can up the frequency and try products with a higher concentration of retinol.
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