Natural, green, organic – what does ‘clean’ beauty actually mean? And can you trust the brands that claim it?
- Retailers such as Sephora and Ulta Beauty designate products as ‘clean’ if they omit ingredients known or suspected to harm humans or the environment
- Formulations that are vegan or don’t involve animal testing are also candidates for inclusion, and environmentally friendly packaging also comes into play
A lot has been said about how the coronavirus pandemic is motivating people to be more discerning about what they put in their bodies. But the crisis may also be having a big effect on what they put on their bodies.
Demand has spiked over the past year. According to a July report by market researchers The NPD Group, some 68 per cent of consumers say they are looking for skincare brands that highlight “clean” ingredients.
“Consumers are more knowledgeable than ever about what they’re putting into their bodies and onto their skin, and there’s a desire to make healthy and environmentally conscious decisions,” said New York-based dermatologist Joshua Zeichner.
But while the US Food and Drug Administration regulates cosmetics to make sure they’re not adulterated or misbranded, the agency isn’t tasked with approving most of these products before they hit the shelves. And though the phrase is often associated with naturally derived ingredients, there’s no standard definition for “clean” beauty.
The fuzzy definition of “clean beauty” hasn’t stopped skincare giants from climbing aboard. In the first half of the year, sales at department and beauty speciality stores of products perceived as “clean” climbed by about 33 per cent to US$1.6 billion compared to the same period last year, according to NPD. Skincare and make-up alone experienced volume growth of more than 20 per cent each.
Major retailers such as Sephora and Ulta Beauty designate as “clean” everything from face cleansers to eyeshadow if they omit ingredients known or suspected to harm humans or the environment, the companies said.
Formulations that are vegan or don’t involve animal testing are also candidates for inclusion, and environmentally friendly packaging also comes into play, according to Ulta chief merchandising officer Monica Arnaudo.
At Sephora, such “clean” products range from lip gloss to foundation, sold under its own and third-party brands. “The landscape can be challenging, due to the vast number of terms or claims – natural, green, organic, etc,” Sephora vice-president of skincare merchandising Cindy Deily said.
Consumers should also know natural doesn’t automatically mean better or safer, said Zeichner, the dermatologist. Ingredients such as essential oils can trigger allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin.
Moreover, most beauty products require preservatives to avoid microbial contamination, making formulations without any artificial ingredients hard to come by.
As far as what’s excluded, many of these products tout a lack of phthalates, which can be found in nail polish, hairspray and plastic packaging, and parabens, which is used as preservative.
The European Union has taken a more aggressive stance on some of these chemicals, while the FDA is still evaluating whether they are actually harmful to humans. Meanwhile, more than half of beauty and personal care products sold in the US are already parabens free, according to NielsenIQ.
The “free from” category is driving growth, the research firm said.
“It’s not just about the ingredients any more, but about what is better for society,” James Taylor said. “We see accelerating sales growth for products that are ‘better for we’, which include a positive environmental impact.”
Moving forwards, NPD beauty industry adviser Larissa Jensen sees the next frontier involving “cleanical” brands, or those that build their lines around laboratory-tested benefits and ingredients while promising “clean, safe, synthetics”.