Skirt suits are back, on It girls Olivia Rodrigo and Hailey Bieber and spring/summer fashion runways everywhere – how to wear the look
- A classic since Coco Chanel launched it in the 1920s, technically the skirt suit never went away – but it’s had a resurgence in spring/summer 2022 collections
- It’s being worn with new attitude too. Olivia Rodrigo wore a vintage pink Chanel tweed skirt suit to the White House; Hailey Bieber chose an Alessandra Rich set
It’s not often a fashion trend will appeal to certified It girls, ladies who lunch, the school librarian and the cast of Clueless. But there is undeniable evidence this season (and indeed it’s been building in seasons prior) that the skirt suit, and especially the tweedy kind, has made a comeback.
Beloved of Upper East Side society matrons and the sharp-tongued Lucille Bluth in Arrested Development, technically it never went anywhere, such is its classic status. But right now we’re wearing it differently and best of all, there is a style to suit most.
In October model Hailey Bieber was snapped wearing a tweed jacket and miniskirt set by Italian-born, London-based designer Alessandra Rich. She paired it look with a sheer top underneath and chunky Miu Miu loafers.
Bieber’s take on the tweed skirt suit felt as fresh now as it must have done in the 1920s, when Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel introduced her tweed skirt suits with the promise of allowing women to move freely and with absolute chic.
This season, tweed skirt sets were also spotted in Moschino’s spring/summer 2022 show at New York Fashion Week – all kitschy nursery meets Fran Fine from The Nanny. There was a perfectly surreal take at Schiaparelli, complete with a nose detail on zippered pockets. Balmain has had a few seasons of sherbet-coloured versions.
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This time around, as lunch dates are set again it feels almost deliciously subversive to be turning to such a ladylike staple, and wearing it with a new attitude.
“Skirt suits have been on trend for the past few seasons, a lot of them are very Chanel- inspired, and I think the sexy and playful twist of the Clueless movie look has definitely had a big comeback this season,” she says.
We love the idea of going sans shirt with just a blazer and trousers for evening, or layering with a shrunken Jacquemus Le Cardigan Alzou
“We have also seen a lot of skirt suits with pencil skirt lengths from the likes of Balmain and Alessandra Rich. If a suit is both smart and sexy it really speaks to clients of different ages.”
Martina Gasparoli, retail and project manager at the vintage-inspired Italian brand Art Dealer, says sales of its jewel-toned skirt suit sets, worn by the likes of Italian mega fashion influencer Chiara Ferragni, have been booming.
“[T]he most loved is the purple one that is almost sold out. The customer buying it is a fan of made in Italy, quality and exclusivity; she wants to have special and precious pieces in her wardrobe,” she says.
“What we really love about this co-ord is that colours make the look and it’s enriched with our exclusive ’60s Art Dealer daisy-shape buttons, coming directly from the Italian archive.
“The great thing about these co-ords and suits in general is that you don’t need anything else to be perfect … people want to buy a total look: with a skirt suit your only thought will be which pair of shoes match better and after that … voilà, you’re ready to go out with a feminine and iconic piece that will stay in your wardrobe forever.”
April Koza, vice-president at luxury retailer FWRD, says the return to normal life is also behind the skirt suit’s comeback, and indeed that of the suit in general.
“Now that people are returning in some form to offices, in-person meetings and going out again, the suit – whether done with skirts, or trousers – is a great wardrobe staple, and an easy way to feel ‘dressed up’ without overthinking it,” she says.
“We are seeing so many variations – from pop colours in silk to more traditional menswear-inspired plaids and wools – that really celebrate and take suit dressing to new heights of creativity.”
As for how to wear the look, Koza suggests mixing it up a little and being playful in your approach.
“We love the idea of going sans shirt with just a blazer and trousers for evening, or layering with a shrunken Jacquemus Le Cardigan Alzou. For a modern take on casual daytime suiting, instead of high heels we recommend Balenciaga Triple S Sneakers or Miu Miu Leather Platform Loafers.
“Complete your look with a tote for the office, but choose a colourful one from Loewe [such as the] Anagram Tote to keep it fresh.”
