The qipao, or cheongsam, makes a comeback in Shanghai, where tailors target young women to keep a tradition alive

Tailors in Shanghai hope to subvert stereotypes of the qipao, or cheongsam, and see targeting the young as a way to keep alive the figure-hugging Chinese dress

The qipao helped to break down gender norms for women during the 1920s, says a tailor. ‘The sense of freedom associated with that will never go out of style’

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Shanghai tailors are hoping young Chinese women can help re-popularise the qipao, or cheongsam, as seen at a Shanghai show late last year. Photo: AFP

Published: 12:45pm, 17 Mar 2022

Zhou Zhuguang surveys his Shanghai workshop and rows of workers meticulously stitching high-collared Chinese dresses known as qipao, some of which sell for nearly US$5,000.

“It’s a highly skilled craft,” said Zhou, co-founder of Hanart, one of China’s most well-known qipao makers.

“Some of our tailors spend a lifetime learning to make qipao.”

Their price tag also reflects enduring demand for the qipao, known as cheongsam in Hong Kong and overseas Chinese communities.

Zhou Zhuguang is the co-founder and designer of a traditional Chinese qipao brand. Photo: AFP

Drawing on traditional design elements, the dress was popularised in 1920s Shanghai, its form-fitting cut capturing the glamour of that freewheeling pre-communist era and the desire of Chinese women to liberate themselves from traditionally subservient roles.