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Haute Couture
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Kim Kardashian, Bella Hadid’s Schiaparelli looks are the work of Daniel Roseberry, ‘unknown’ American who revived the legacy fashion brand

  • French couture house Schiaparelli, once a competitor to Chanel, is the label hottest brand of the moment after its reinvention by US designer Daniel Roseberry
  • Roseberry explains why it thrived during Covid-19, how being a ‘child of the ’90s’ has helped him and the red carpet moments that put the brand in the spotlight

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Bella Hadid’s golden lung-shaped necklace (left) and Kim Kardashian’s six-pack bodice – are the work of Daniel Roseberry, the US fashion designer who helped reinvent French label Schiaparelli. Photo: AP/Instagram
Vincenzo La Torre

Reviving long-dormant fashion houses to turn them into profitable brands has become a recipe for success in the luxury industry.

In the early 1990s, labels such as Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta – even larger ones like Louis Vuitton and Dior – had been largely relegated to the dustbin of history. It was thanks to the business prowess of groups like LVMH and Kering that they ended up becoming global household names.

The journey to success, however, is often fraught and rarely happens overnight.

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Schiaparelli, the French couture house founded in 1927 by Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, was once a competitor to Chanel and one of the most revered fashion names in the first half of the 20th century.
Elsa Schiaparelli, reflected in a mirror, wearing one of her ensembles. Photo: Condé Nast Archive/Corbis
Elsa Schiaparelli, reflected in a mirror, wearing one of her ensembles. Photo: Condé Nast Archive/Corbis

Her pioneering collaborations with Surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau are part of the canon of modern fashion. From her use of “shocking pink” to creations such the “lobster dress” and the “shoe hat”, she built a rich and irreverent vocabulary that, at one point, made it the buzziest brand in Paris.

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