Your guide to permanent make-up: what it is, how long it lasts and why people love it so much

Permanent make-up is a procedure that is taking over the beauty industry one tiny needle at a time – but despite its sudden popularity it is not new
There are four common types of permanent make-up – experts break down what they are, how they are done and how long they actually last before fading

Beauty

Carolina Malis

Published: 11:15am, 2 Nov 2022

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Waking up with a perfectly made up face is no longer an unattainable dream thanks to permanent make-up, a beauty procedure that is taking over the industry one tiny needle at a time.

Permanent make-up is not new – it was first used in the 1980s to treat alopecia. Experts found more ways to use it as time went by, from helping burn victims, vitiligo patients and cancer survivors to assisting those suffering from arthritis or Parkinson’s and who may struggle with applying make-up on their own.

Melissa Pruett, founder of Melt By Melissa studio in the US state of Arizona, says the procedure has advanced significantly since when it was first used.

“Nowadays, the technique and artistry have truly evolved to provide people with the most natural enhancements,” she says.

Permanent make-up refers to a range of techniques used to “tattoo” semi-permanent make-up onto your face. Photo: Handout

What is permanent make-up, and how does it work?

Permanent make-up – also known as micropigmentation, intradermal pigmentation or cosmetic tattoos – refers to a range of techniques used to “tattoo” semi-permanent make-up onto your face.

Fake freckles are one of the permanent make-up treatments most sought after. Despite its name, most treatments are only semi-permanent, lasting from 18 months to a couple of years. Photo: Instagram

A dermatologist or cosmetic tattoo artist inserts natural pigments into the top layer of the skin with tools that use tiny needles to perforate it hundreds of times per minute.

While it is known as permanent make-up, most results are only semi-permanent, lasting from 18 months to a couple of years. The pigment is at its brightest and most saturated right after the procedure. With time, the colour fades away.

There are four common types of permanent make-up.

Microblading

Microblading – also known as brow feathering and microshading – is when needles are used to inject thin strokes of pigment along the brow line. The goal is to make eyebrows look fuller and more defined.

While technically the procedure can be performed on any kind of skin, some dermatologists recommend those with oily skin types consult a professional before jumping to it.

“Microblading only looks great when you can achieve fine details,” says Kendra Bray, owner of New York-based salon Better Brows & Beauty. “People with oily skin won’t heal with the crisp strokes you need to achieve a natural look.”

If executed properly, microbladed brows can last anywhere from 18 months to three years, depending on the application method, skin type and the client’s lifestyle.

Permanent eyeliner

Cosmetic eyeliner tattoos highlight the eye’s natural shape and can enhance light lashes or the lack of them.

“Permanent eyeliner is a method of placing pigment along the lash line, under the skin, similar to tattooing,” explains New York-based Dr Rachel Nazarian, and it can be performed in various ways.

One of the most popular is the lash line enhancement, where a dark, thin stroke of pigment is tattooed along the lash line to make your eyes stand out. For those looking for a bolder option, permanent eyeliner is applied above the lash line to simulate eyeliner make-up, with styles ranging from a classic cat eye to soft wings.

Just like microblading, permanent eyeliner can last up to three years.

Lip blushing

Lip blushing or tinting provides your lips with a light, even layer of colour to boost their natural pigment, defines edges and gives the appearance of fuller lips without having to undergo invasive procedures. A cosmetic tattoo gun and water-based inks are used to achieve the look.

It is essential to keep in mind that lip tattoos are more complex than other kinds of cosmetic tattoos, as the skin on your lips cannot hold on to pigment as firmly as the rest of your face, so touch-ups may be needed more frequently.

Fake freckles

What started as a trend, where people used eyeliner pens, henna or coloured gels to fake freckles on their skin, is now available as a semi-permanent option. The procedure involves using a single-needle tool to poke pigment into your skin in a more controlled manner.

Some people may ask for a natural “dust” look, where light, irregular freckles are randomly placed over the cheeks and nose. Others go for a more intentional placement and bring in a design – or even get their astrological constellation tattooed on their face.

Permanent freckles can last a year or two, but skincare products and sun exposure may accelerate the fading process.

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