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What skincare rules really work to get flawless, glowing skin? Skincare experts debunk seven of the top myths. Photo: Shutterstock

7 skincare myths debunked, from oils and retinol to exfoliating and double cleansing

  • There is a lot of contradictory information in regards to skincare. Do oils really clog the pores? Can any quick-fix anti-ageing approach have a lasting effect?
  • Here are seven of the top skincare myths debunked by leading experts, from whether we really need to double cleanse to why we should not fear exfoliating
Beauty
Kasia Dietz

Skincare is an essential part of any daily routine for a flawless and glowing complexion, but how do we know what works when there is so much contradictory information? Do products with oils really clog the pores? Can any quick-fix anti-ageing approach have a lasting effect?

To separate fact from fiction, here are some of the top skincare myths debunked by leading skin experts.

1. Oils do not clog the pores

A common skincare myth is that oils clog the pores, leading to acne and other forms of inflammation. It is a claim that skincare educator Trish Alkaitis, whose father developed one of the first organic skincare lines in 1996, disputes.

High-quality organic plant oils can restore skin balance quickly,” says Alkaitis, the head of Dr Alkaitis Organic Skin Care, noting that oils have been used in skincare and body care for thousands of years – from head to toe – across various cultures.
A common skincare myth is that oils clog the pores, leading to acne and other forms of inflammation. Photo: Shutterstock
“In India, an ancient alternative medicine system called Ayurveda treats numerous ailments both internally and externally using different plant oils,” Alkaitis adds. “From birth onwards, it is customary to massage oneself daily with oils.

“This practice not only moisturises but also calms the nervous system, prevents inflammation and deeply nourishes the skin.”

How beauty oils reduce acne, dullness, signs of ageing and irritation

According to Alkaitis, a high-quality organic plant or seed oil can provide many benefits, ranging from antioxidants to vitamins and moisture. But whether the oil clogs the pores depends on its quality.

“It is essential for the oil to be free from synthetics, preservatives and fragrance and to be organic,” she says.

2. Yes, you can use oils for oily skin

What about the commonly believed myth of not using oils for oily, acne-prone skin? Marion Massias, the expertise director at French brand and retailer Oh My Cream Skincare, sheds some light on treating oily skin.

Alkaitis says that Ayurveda teaches that “oil cuts oil”. Photo: Shutterstock

“Applying oil on oily skin allows it to regulate. Little by little, [the skin] will produce less fat and thus limit shine,” Massias says.

Alkaitis says Ayurveda teaches that “oil cuts oil”, and adds that oily skin is simply out of balance because of factors like diet, hormones, medications and genetics – or simply because a person is using products that are too harsh.

Alkaitis advises acne-prone clients to massage high-quality plant oils into their skin before bed, which “not only signals your skin to stop overproducing oil but also provides crucial nourishment to the pores between facial appointments if you’re dealing with clogged pores”.

Moisturising the pores with beneficial oils can help your skincare professional gently remove blackheads.

After a certain age, you do not necessarily have to use active formulas including retinol, vitamin C and acid exfoliation. Photo: Shutterstock

3. Retinols and acid exfoliators will not guarantee healthy skin

Do these intense treatments guarantee healthy skin?

“Depending on the type of skin you have and what it can tolerate, plus your lifestyle, after a certain age you don’t necessarily have to use active formulas including retinol, vitamin C and acid exfoliation,” says Paris-based acupuncturist and facial rejuvenation specialist Elaine Huntzinger.

Rather than these treatments, Huntzinger vouches for regular facial massages and facials.

Another tip from the skincare guru – whose clients include Instagram’s director of fashion partnerships Eva Chen – is that, rather than “forcing active ingredients on your skin, getting enough sleep and eating with the seasons are better ways to guarantee a healthy glow”.

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4. Quick fixes will not lead to lasting results

Barbara Sturm, a German aesthetics doctor known for her anti-ageing skin treatments, says: “Using quick fix anti-ageing approaches like acid peels and harsh lasers that create inflammation can harm rather than heal your skin.

“The goal of skin care is to soothe and reduce inflammation, not cause it – skincare should never cause any discomfort. If your skin feels protected, taken care of, hydrated, glowy and dewy, that is a hallmark of effective skincare.”

Exfoliating is an essential step in skin maintenance – but use gentle products. Photo Shutterstock

5. Exfoliating should not be feared – but be gentle

Similarly, “if it burns, it works” is a misconception, according to Alkaitis.

“The skin’s epidermis maintains a delicate balance of the necessary microbiome, consisting of a healthy mix of beneficial bacteria, viruses and fungi living on – and inside – the skin’s surface.”

This microbiome, Alkaitis adds, helps to maintain our body’s overall health, and disrupting it can be harmful. But this does not mean that we should not exfoliate.

“Exfoliating is an essential step in skin maintenance,” Alkaitis says. “However, choose a gentle product that won’t burn or disrupt the skin’s delicate homeostasis.”

This applies to other products and services, which beauty lovers should reconsider with a critical eye.

“Are you using retinol? Microdermabrasion, lasers, peels? For the most part, these treatments ‘take away’ from the skin rather than nourishing and giving back,” says Alkaitis.

“People often overlook how combining aggressive exfoliators with other treatments can further disrupt the skin, leading to chemical sensitivities, breakouts, thinning, dehydration and inflammation,” she adds, recommending gentle exfoliators made from enzymes, which carefully digest dead skin cells without harming living ones.

Properly cleansing the skin is an everyday necessity. Photo: Shutterstock

6. Double cleansing really does help

How about the myth that you do not need to double-cleanse if you do not wear make-up? According to Massias, properly cleansing the skin is an everyday necessity.

“Even if you don’t wear make-up, you need to cleanse your skin properly every evening, because of pollution [and] dust,” she notes, adding that the double cleansing process is both a gentle and thorough way to wash the day off.

Double cleansing process is both a gentle and thorough way to wash the day off. Photo: Shutterstock

7. Consistency is key

Lastly, how important is consistency? Sturm recommends that clients do not “zig and zag in-between products and brands … which can cause the ingredients to work at cross purposes”.

Consult the experts, use what works for you and always stay well-informed.

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