7 skincare myths debunked, from oils and retinol to exfoliating and double cleansing
- There is a lot of contradictory information in regards to skincare. Do oils really clog the pores? Can any quick-fix anti-ageing approach have a lasting effect?
- Here are seven of the top skincare myths debunked by leading experts, from whether we really need to double cleanse to why we should not fear exfoliating
Skincare is an essential part of any daily routine for a flawless and glowing complexion, but how do we know what works when there is so much contradictory information? Do products with oils really clog the pores? Can any quick-fix anti-ageing approach have a lasting effect?
To separate fact from fiction, here are some of the top skincare myths debunked by leading skin experts.
1. Oils do not clog the pores
A common skincare myth is that oils clog the pores, leading to acne and other forms of inflammation. It is a claim that skincare educator Trish Alkaitis, whose father developed one of the first organic skincare lines in 1996, disputes.
“This practice not only moisturises but also calms the nervous system, prevents inflammation and deeply nourishes the skin.”
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According to Alkaitis, a high-quality organic plant or seed oil can provide many benefits, ranging from antioxidants to vitamins and moisture. But whether the oil clogs the pores depends on its quality.
“It is essential for the oil to be free from synthetics, preservatives and fragrance and to be organic,” she says.
2. Yes, you can use oils for oily skin
What about the commonly believed myth of not using oils for oily, acne-prone skin? Marion Massias, the expertise director at French brand and retailer Oh My Cream Skincare, sheds some light on treating oily skin.
“Applying oil on oily skin allows it to regulate. Little by little, [the skin] will produce less fat and thus limit shine,” Massias says.
Alkaitis says Ayurveda teaches that “oil cuts oil”, and adds that oily skin is simply out of balance because of factors like diet, hormones, medications and genetics – or simply because a person is using products that are too harsh.
Moisturising the pores with beneficial oils can help your skincare professional gently remove blackheads.
3. Retinols and acid exfoliators will not guarantee healthy skin
Do these intense treatments guarantee healthy skin?
Rather than these treatments, Huntzinger vouches for regular facial massages and facials.
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4. Quick fixes will not lead to lasting results
Barbara Sturm, a German aesthetics doctor known for her anti-ageing skin treatments, says: “Using quick fix anti-ageing approaches like acid peels and harsh lasers that create inflammation can harm rather than heal your skin.
“The goal of skin care is to soothe and reduce inflammation, not cause it – skincare should never cause any discomfort. If your skin feels protected, taken care of, hydrated, glowy and dewy, that is a hallmark of effective skincare.”
5. Exfoliating should not be feared – but be gentle
Similarly, “if it burns, it works” is a misconception, according to Alkaitis.
“The skin’s epidermis maintains a delicate balance of the necessary microbiome, consisting of a healthy mix of beneficial bacteria, viruses and fungi living on – and inside – the skin’s surface.”
This microbiome, Alkaitis adds, helps to maintain our body’s overall health, and disrupting it can be harmful. But this does not mean that we should not exfoliate.
“Exfoliating is an essential step in skin maintenance,” Alkaitis says. “However, choose a gentle product that won’t burn or disrupt the skin’s delicate homeostasis.”
This applies to other products and services, which beauty lovers should reconsider with a critical eye.
“People often overlook how combining aggressive exfoliators with other treatments can further disrupt the skin, leading to chemical sensitivities, breakouts, thinning, dehydration and inflammation,” she adds, recommending gentle exfoliators made from enzymes, which carefully digest dead skin cells without harming living ones.
6. Double cleansing really does help
“Even if you don’t wear make-up, you need to cleanse your skin properly every evening, because of pollution [and] dust,” she notes, adding that the double cleansing process is both a gentle and thorough way to wash the day off.
7. Consistency is key
Lastly, how important is consistency? Sturm recommends that clients do not “zig and zag in-between products and brands … which can cause the ingredients to work at cross purposes”.
Consult the experts, use what works for you and always stay well-informed.