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Beyoncé prepares to take the stage at her Renaissance world tour in a Ruslan Baginskiy hat. The Ukrainian milliner explains how his hat brand is keeping up with the big-name luxury houses. Photo: Ruslan Baginskiy

Profile | Beyoncé, Bella Hadid love his hats, so did Queen Elizabeth: meet Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy, who is taking on the luxury houses

  • Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy reflects on his hat brand’s roots in 2015, and turning a design worn by Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber into a hot seller
  • Years ago, he wanted his label to ‘become the world’s number one headwear brand’. Despite the invasion of his country and its setbacks, he is well on his way
Fashion

“My little dream is to become the world’s number one headwear brand,” Ruslan Baginskiy told me four years ago.

Everything has multiplied since that conversation for Baginskiy, who, even back then, already had a successful independent fashion brand.

The past year has been an especially busy one for Baginskiy and his business partner, Petro Yasinskiy. Like any other Ukrainian business, it has faced unprecedented challenges since Russian forces invaded Ukraine in February 2022.

And yet, there has been a silver lining: global recognition of the Ruslan Baginskiy brand has grown, helping it to not only stay afloat but to thrive as one of fashion’s need-to-know accessories labels.

Ruslan Baginskiy is the co-founder and designer behind the namesake hat brand. Photo: Ruslan Baginskiy

The label’s origins go back to 2015, when Ruslan and Petro moved from Lviv in western Ukraine to the country’s capital, Kyiv, to start a hat brand.

Their first task was an ambitious one – to test the waters at haute couture fashion week in Paris, France, in 2016. Within months, they had secured invitations to Paris’ ready-to-wear fashion week and made friends with some of the world’s top social media influencers.

Every single aspect of business has changed. Production, logistics, even our values and just the general mental state of the team
Ruslan Baginskiy on the consequences of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine for his label

Easy-going and friendly, Ruslan and Petro proved natural-born networkers, and their love for parties boosted awareness of their fledgling brand.

Within days, models Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber were seen wearing Ruslan Baginskiy baker boy caps. Influencer marketing was still in its infancy, so the timing could not have been better.

Now considered a cult item for the brand, the caps are stocked in top luxury stores worldwide.

A hat from Ruslan Baginskiy’s spring/summer 2023 collection. Photo: Ruslan Baginskiy

When Russia invaded Ukraine, it “really divided our life into ‘before the invasion’ and ‘since the invasion’,” says Baginskiy. “Every single aspect of business has changed.

“Production, logistics, even our values and just the general mental state of the team,” which now numbers around 100 people – it was 25 four years ago.”

“The war changes everything – in every usual step of our business some kind of practical issue arises,” Baginskiy adds. Generators, for example, had to be bought when Russia launched attacks on Ukraine’s power grid, and sourcing materials and hiring professionals – many of whom fled the country – has become a challenge.

“Some days, we were left in the cold or without light at the office, working [using] mobile hotspots. The list goes on and on.”

A hat from Ruslan Baginskiy’s spring/summer 2023 collection. Photo: Ruslan Baginskiy
On the other hand, the brand’s foreign partners, clients and friends have become “a network that kept us from falling”. These clients have included Britain’s late Queen Elizabeth – an honour that very few non-British brands have enjoyed.

Communications with Buckingham Palace took about a month, after which three designs were presented to the queen, one of which was custom-made for her. She died a few weeks after it was delivered and she did not get the chance to wear it in public.

The brand has been tapped by another royal, albeit of a different sort: pop queen Beyoncé. For two of the singer’s performances during her world tour, Baginskiy’s team created wide-brimmed boater hats.

The same design, fashioned from black straw, was recently spotted on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival atop French supermodel Cindy Bruna’s head.

French supermodel Cindy Bruna dons a wide-brimmed hat by Ruslan Baginskiy on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet. Photo: Ruslan Baginskiy

Baginskiy, now an experienced milliner to the stars, says the best part is seeing the designs on stage and on the red carpet, as well as celebrating milestones with his team.

The biggest challenge? “Probably the pace – often things are needed at the last minute, changes are constantly being made and sometimes you really don’t know if there will be a result.”

Celebrities often require the brand’s total commitment, which can result in situations such as having to fly a team member across the world to deliver a hat for a Vogue cover shoot featuring singer Madonna – something which Baginskiy did a few years back.

A hat from Ruslan Baginskiy’s spring/summer 2023 collection. Photo: Ruslan Baginskiy

Though networking has helped to raise awareness of the brand, Baginskiy insists that his work is not just about crafting glamorous looks and going to parties. “Fashion is a language, a presence, a crucial part of cultural communication,” he says.

Fashion is also about social responsibility. During the Covid-19 pandemic, the brand donated 1 million Ukrainian hryvnias (about US$27,000) to a hospital in Baginskiy’s hometown. His philanthropy has continued through the war – the company decided, after the invasion began, that it would help the Ukrainian army.

“We understand that often [this] is perceived as ‘supporting war’, yet we believe that only the Armed Forces of Ukraine [can] bring peace,” he says. The brand, which released a special baseball cap collection in support of Ukraine last year, has donated over 3.4 million Ukrainian hryvnias to the cause.

Actress Bella Ramsey wears a Ruslan Baginskiy hat in a shoot for Unpolished Magazine. Photo: Jason Hetherington

Baginskiy’s craftsmanship and dedication landed the label the accessories prize at this year’s Andam Fashion Awards. The label is the first from Ukraine to win the French award.

“I wish I could tell this news to myself back in 2016, during our first trip to Paris, when we used every chance to prove to the world and ourselves that a small brand from Ukraine could produce items at the same level as legendary French maisons,” Baginskiy wrote on Instagram.

“Being included in big fashion moments makes us feel [like a] part of the world’s dialogue; [it] makes us feel seen and heard. Being able to create is one of the most valuable things in life, it is a crucial part of peaceful existence. When Ukrainians create, it means that we still ‘are’, we exist.”

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