Is AI ruining the fashion industry for real-life models – in particular, people of colour?

Proponents of AI in fashion modelling say it helps showcase diversity in all shapes and sizes and helps tailor purchases that in turn reduce fashion waste

Critics think digital models may push human models, make-up artists and photographers out of a job – and diminish opportunities for people of colour

4-MIN READ4-MIN

Printed AI-generated images of models at the headquarters of The Clueless company in Barcelona. The use of digital models has complicated implications for diversity, critics says. Photo: AFP

Published: 4:15am, 17 Apr 2024

London-based model Alexsandrah has a twin, but not in the way you would expect: her counterpart is made of pixels instead of flesh and blood.

The virtual twin was generated by artificial intelligence and has already appeared as a stand-in for the real-life Alexsandrah in a photo shoot. Alexsandrah, who goes by her first name professionally, in turn receives credit and compensation whenever the AI version of herself gets used – just like a human model.

Alexsandrah says she and her alter ego mirror each other “even down to the baby hairs”. And it is yet another example of how AI is transforming creative industries – and the way humans may or may not be compensated.

Proponents say the growing use of AI in fashion modelling showcases diversity in all shapes and sizes, allowing consumers to make more tailored purchase decisions that in turn reduces fashion waste from product returns. And digital modelling saves money for companies and creates opportunities for people who want to work with the technology.

Fashion model Alexsandrah poses with a computer showing an AI-generated image of her. Photo: AP

But critics raise concerns that digital models may push human models – and other professionals like make-up artists and photographers – out of a job. Unsuspecting consumers could also be fooled into thinking AI models are real, and companies could claim credit for fulfilling diversity commitments without employing actual humans.

“Fashion is exclusive, with limited opportunities for people of colour to break in,” said Sara Ziff, a former model and founder of the Model Alliance, a non-profit organisation aiming to advance workers’ rights in the fashion industry.