Man From U.N.C.L.E. a reminder of signet ring's enduring cachet
Like a chop, the signet ring was historically used as a personal signature on letters; today they are worn, often without symbol or design, as a discreet sign of prestige. Bespoke rings have added allure
If you’re one of the millions of people who have seen Guy Ritchie’s new spy thriller The Man from U.N.C.L.E., you know about the stylish, mod world that he and costume designer Joanna Johnston created for the screen.
You probably liked the bespoke suits, or the Thierry Lasry sunglasses and the miniskirts (especially the miniskirts). But if you were paying closer attention to the finer sartorial details of the film (along with the plot’s twists and turns), you may have noticed a chunk of gold on the left pinkie of Napoleon Solo, the American spy played by Henry Cavill.
That notable bit of bling was a signet ring. You may not know the term, but you might recognise the style – perhaps your dad, or your dad’s dad, had one.
According to Johnston, the custom-made signet ring worn by Cavill’s character was the actor’s suggestion, as he’s known to favour the style in real life.
“Henry came to me with the thought that his character Napoleon – a former antiques dealer whose father was a janitor – would have enjoyed the irony of having the image of Janus [the two-faced Roman god from whose name the word “janitor” is derived] on his finger in solid gold,” says Johnston.
Often considered the “gentleman’s ring”, the signet ring has been used since the days of letter writing as a personal signature or symbol of family heritage. Typically it bore a family crest or another symbol representing an individual on its flat surface. A design was usually engraved (often in reverse) either directly into the metal of the ring or an inset gem, and then pressed into wax or clay to create the personal seal or signature.