New York Fashion Week

10 years of Tisci: Givenchy New York show is homage to creative director's genius

Spring/summer collection referenced signature Tisci looks but was more relaxed and sensual than previous editions

PUBLISHED : Tuesday, 15 September, 2015, 9:09pm
UPDATED : Tuesday, 15 September, 2015, 9:09pm

Paris may be considered the world's fashion capital, but New York is catching up fast. And to prove it Parisian house Givenchy swapped the City of Lights for the Big Apple to stage its spring/summer 2016 collection.

Givenchy's show - held on the banks of the Hudson River on the eve of the anniversary of the September 11 attacks and with the Freedom Tower, built on the site of the World Trade Centre, in the background - was more than a celebration of artistic director Riccardo Tisci's 10th anniversary at the brand.

The show was screened in parts of the city including SoHo and Times Square, and among the 2,000 people at the show were 800 fashion students and members of the public who entered a lottery for tickets.

"I remember being a kid and always wanting to see a show; my dream was to be a part of it. While I feel happy that all these amazing journalists, celebrities and friends can attend, it is the kids out there that have really made my success. Maybe not financially but they understand what I say. The least I could do is open the door to them. Fashion is related to emotion and everyone should be able to experience that," he said.

For all that, there were plenty of celebrities in the crowd, from singers Steven Tyler, Nicki Minaj and Jennifer Hudson to actress Julia Roberts and designers Michael Kors and Tory Burch. Longtime Tisci supporters Kanye West and a heavily pregnant Kim Kardashian also attended - although they arrived almost an hour late.

Tisci enlisted the talents of long-time collaborator and artist Marina Abramoviæ to create a series of performances that went far beyond beautiful clothes. Musicians sang chants from across the world while seven artists created live performances.

The Givenchy collection paid homage to Tisci's tenure at the house and featured more than 80 looks, including women's and men's ready-to-wear and haute couture. Models including Joan Smalls, Kendall Jenner and long-time muse Mariacarla Boscono were among those showing Tisci's creations.

"The inspiration was something that we all have in common, despite our sexuality, skin colour or gender - love. My inspiration was a bride and groom, so the women's wear moved between these elements of masculinity and femininity, as seen in the wedding dresses and then the tuxedos," Tisci said.

While many of the looks were reinterpretations of signature Tisci pieces, including flowing kimono jackets, lingerie-inspired dresses, lacy tops and masculine tailoring, the style was more relaxed and sensual than his previous collections, showing his evolution as a designer.

"Givenchy has given me the opportunity to showcase my vision to the world. It's taught me a lot as a designer, but also made me grow as a person. Money can change people, but if you have a solid and strong point of view you can stay the same person. That was my goal - I'm happy and blessed but I am still myself," the designer said.