Paris Fashion Week

Why red carpet king Elie Saab's taking it easy at Paris Fashion Week

Fashion house known for its formal attire presents a more flowing silhouette and some sportier looks, in a nod to the modern woman's taste for ease and freedom

PUBLISHED : Monday, 05 October, 2015, 10:49am
UPDATED : Monday, 05 October, 2015, 11:02am

Elie Saab has taken a softly, softly approach for spring/summer 2016 if the ready-to-wear collection he presented on the Paris catwalk is anything to go by. The Lebanese king of the red carpet eschewed his usually tightly tailored pieces for a flowing, almost bohemian silhouette.

Young models of the moment Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid were highlights of the runway and an indication of the more fashion forward and fresh direction Saab looks like he is wanting to take. The result is a more wearable, freer narrative - and even though his trademark laces and florals were all there, the collection was much more modern than we have come to expect from Saab. 

His desire to be bold was obvious. While the strategy mostly worked well, one graphic black and white print that fell into a floral bouquet was a jarring interruption to an otherwise fluid collection.  

Rose hibiscus, law green and azure blue, all favourite hues of Saab, were vivid and intense. Soft, flowing shapes defined the dresses and lace trouser suits. Sheer, tiered laces, barely there chiffon, and plunging necklines all spoke to a liberated 1970s influence.

The perforated leathers, silky little bomber jackets, wide leg pants and lace shorts showed a newly athletic side to the house of Saab. That's not to say that anyone will be going running in any of these outfits, of course, but it's interesting to note that even the most formal fashion labels are acknowledging the tastes of modern women, where ease and freedom reign.