Gucci eschews catwalk for inspiring art exhibition in China visit

When Gucci announced it was coming to China, we assumed it would put on a catwalk show. That's expected of luxury brands when they do a big event in the market, especially with a new designer in the hot seat.

But Alessandro Michele, Gucci's new creative director, insisted on creating a dialogue in a different, less obvious way. And Marco Bizzarri, the brand's new CEO, was more than supportive, Michele says: "I love Marco because he gives me freedom."

The result is the "No Longer / Not Yet" art exhibition at Shanghai's Minsheng Museum, co-curated by Michele and stylist and editor Katie Grand.

"First of all, in a place like China we needed to do something that was not just about product; I don't believe in that kind of philosophy," says Michele.

"The Chinese people represent a big taste of what is in fashion now. To talk with China through an exhibition is a way to let me open a door."

Doing a fashion show, says Michele, "would be too literal".

Certainly, Gucci is not the first to commission or collaborate with artists - Christian Dior, Prada, Chanel and Louis Vuitton are all heavy hitters in the art world now. But what is interesting about this move is that it signals a further shift in the positioning and identity of the label since Michele took the reins.