Designers put the fun back into bags with playful, colourful models

Fashion moves in mysterious ways, and trends can swing from one extreme to another. When Phoebe Philo took over at Céline, bags became severely pared-down, logo-free and almost anonymous. The easiest way to distinguish the must-have bag was simply by its shape, such as the Céline Classic, or a piece of hardware such as Christopher Kane's Safety Buckle.

While such minimalism might have been reflective of the recessionary mood in Europe, now that economies are brightening up, that upswing is proving cathartic for bags as colourful, fun and maximalist styles become all the rage.

The peacocking street-stylers' favourite this season, Paula Cademartori's Petite Faye handbag hits a home run with it's Big Bang inlay. The rose calf leather bestseller is a memorable explosion of cartoon-style colours with an industrial polished metal buckle. Cademartori, the Brazilian-born designer of Italian descent, has really captivated buyers with her multicoloured arm candy. "I have strong views on colour and textures; what I do is not childish," she says. "It is fun in an adult way, not a teenage way."

The intricate inlaid patterns are a feat of craftsmanship. Cademartori wants the bags to be cherished from season to season and become heirlooms to be passed down. Having trained in Brazil to make jewellery and shoes as part of her in industrial design course, Cademartori moved to Milan when she was 21 to follow her childhood passion of creating accessories. After several years designing handbags at Versace, she was selected for the Vogue Talents showcase, sponsored by Vogue Italia, in 2009, with a project on footwear which gave her the extra boost to launch her label in 2010.

The result is a range of handbags including highly collectable designs featuring enchanting geometric patterns. From precious, bright minaudières, the popular Petite Faye and Dun-Dun bags are inspired by the vibrancy and colour of her homeland.

"When the bags are small the level of complexity gets higher," she says. "They are a very special product and I like to feel every Cademartori is a design made for a collector.