Karl Lagerfeld presents ‘eco-luxe’ Chanel couture collection for spring/summer

The German designer focused on a few key silhouettes and a gentle palette of cream, ivory, bamboo, hemp and straw in a show presented in a Japanese-style house and garden of recyclable elements

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 27 January, 2016, 5:27pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 27 January, 2016, 6:02pm

Amid the heightened security around Paris in the wake of November’s terror attacks, the zen-like setting Karl Lagerfeld created for his latest show of Chanel haute couture was welcome. A Japanese-style wooden building, from which models emerged to wander serenely through a grassy garden (all elements, like the wooden seating, recyclable) provided a calming atmosphere for what is best described as an “eco-luxe” collection.

He focused on a few key silhouettes: rounded jackets and sleeves over a pencil slim skirt with a tulle kick-pleat and slender 1920s-style tiered dresses, and a gentle palette of cream, ivory, bamboo, hemp and straw. Then he let loose the superb craftsmanship of Chanel’s Metiers d’Arts studios: jackets and dresses in teased chiffons and plaited wools with silk and paillette fringes, pleating, embroideries and adorned with sweet jewelled flowers and insect brooches. These were worn with cork-soled shoes and, a nod to the modern world, gold leather and pearl belts with Smartphone pouches.

There was a lightness of spirit in the way Lagerfeld handled the colours, the fluidity of the fabrics and delicacy of the workmanship which offered a moment’s escape from the cold hard realities of the world outside.