Pointy ears and felt hats: John Galliano’s galactic Maison Margiela show is Paris Fashion Week’s weirdest

Galliano’s spring/summer ready to wear collection for the Belgian label champions ‘eclectic futurism’ and form over function

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 29 September, 2016, 4:07pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 29 September, 2016, 4:07pm

Even those who want to hate John Galliano can’t deny his unique creativity when it comes to designing thought-provoking fashion and giving us fresh ideas – all executed with a rare and distinctive flair.

He is still a one-off in his generation – and here are five reasons why we’re still thinking about his Paris Fashion Week show for Maison Margiela:

1. This collection championed an eclectic futurism that fused intergalactic inspirations with candy colours and a clever dissection of clothing archetypes from the classic trench to outdoors and sportswear.

2. Models wore felt helmets over slicked hair, glorious silver eyebrows and lips and glittery skin as if they had been dipped in stardust. The look was space age, bewildering and totally out of this world.

3. A high-tech message came with those hands-free headsets, bold, quirky earrings, high vis colours, neoprene and metallic leathers.

4. This is fashion that transforms not decorates. Sporty mesh fabrics, toggled elastic and hiking backpack straps morphed into tops and voluminous smocks. Inner linings take centre stage as conventional garment structures are subverted and transformed.

5. There was a telling quote by founder Martin Margiela in the show notes: “The mission of Maison Margiela is to reject convention, and our evolving proposition stimulates nostalgia and innovation in equal parts. We believe that familiarity must be unsettled and spontaneous, with an intrinsic strangeness.” He explains why his label is always at the cutting-edge of avant-garde ready-to-wear.