Louis Vuitton does grown-up elegance, Miu Miu goes to the beach
French label returns to its roots under Nicholas Ghesquiere with a pared back collection at Paris Fashion Week, while Miuccia Prada opts for retro, Brigitte Bardot-inspired summer fun
After seasons mining more exotic influences, be it motorcross, anime, Tron or punk, this time languid, French elegance was the theme of Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest collection for Louis Vuitton. A return to roots of the French brand, Ghesquière’s new proposition for womenswear was surprisingly pared back, with lean fluid lines, asymmetrical slashed drapes, jersey harem-like trousers and long skirts slashed to the thigh.
He followed on from previous seasons with graphic, sensual cutouts at the waist to reveal the hip. There was a strap and some buckles here and there, but he has cut down on a lot of the bells and whistles we’re used to. A hard 1980s shoulder structured his sleek silhouette and there was some fabulous suiting, as well as many covetable, leather jackets and little leather skirts, with which models wore statement ankle boots and little LV iPhone cases carried in their hands.
A few corset dresses injected some glamour, and metallic sheens on leather and sheer black sparkly gowns gave the otherwise quite ladylike collection a harder, urban edge. It looks like Ghesquiere’s LV girl has grown up.
The sunny weather during the tail end of Paris fashion week seems to have put everyone in a good mood, including Italian designer Miuccia Prada. Her spring/summer 2017 collection for Miu Miu took us to back to the beach with a retro- inspired collection that ended the season on a high note.
Models took to the catwalk in 1950s-style bikinis, halter neck swimsuits and ruffled bloomers, which were accessorised with quirky swimming caps covered in rubber flowers and beach slides. The retro beach theme continued with a series of cover-ups, including coats and wrap skirts made from terry cloth and printed with abstract prints such as flowers and polka dots.
The collection was peppered throughout with wearable pieces that will keep Miu Miu fans happy, be it the 1940s-style shirt dresses in bright colours or trouser suits covered in geometric stripes. One thing is for sure – the Miu Miu girl will definitely look like she’s having fun next summer.
Additional reporting by Divia Harilela.