Five things you need to know about Dior Homme's autumn-winter 2017 show
1. This was the strongest, most aggressive statement from Kris Van Assche for several season - a momentus collection for the Belgian designer with a stage to match. In the cavernous opulence of the Salon D’Honneur at the Grand Palais, there were rows of metallic party flags flashing from the ceiling. Flashing stage lights and aggressive pumping music opened the show, and set the scene for an homage to hardcore late ’80s and ’90s rave culture infused with a jolt of futurism - in black, pinstripe, red and highlighter neons.
2. A sporty new slogan debuted - HARDIOR. Emblazoned on tape across the catwalk floor as well as outfits, it felt like a statement on the hard, raw and unbridled energy of youth culture in dance music of the time, which Van Assche cleverly mines here. There was respect paid to the tailoring traditions of the house and it’s founder, but this enhanced rather than diluted the pure strength of frenetic, hard, youthful energy on display.
3. It was a massive celebration for the brand. The date of the show (January 21) coincided with Monsieur Christian Dior’s birthday. And 2017 also mark’s creative director Kris Van Assche’s 10th anniversary at the brand, as well as the house of Dior’s 70th birthday. Not your traditional fashion house party perhaps, but a sweaty, hypnotic, ‘loose yourself’ kind of rave.
4. Front row celebrities included a diverse cast of characters such as rapper A$AP Rocky (who appears in the Dior Homme campaigns), fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld, actor Rami Malek, Chinese actor Wang Kai and British singer Boy George. All showed up to support Van Assche, representing the uncompromising type of Dior Homme men that are part of the Kris Van Assche squad.
5. Key pieces: wide-leg raver styles on both strapped cargo pants and suits, huge fur coats, long wintry zip-up capes, beautiful tailoring and textured fabrication given a young twist. Prints of a photo of men dancing or moshing in ecstasy by artist Dan Witz were a big inspiration, making it onto finale outfits as well as the show invitation.
