What International Woolmark Prize judges say about 2016/17 winners Gabriela Hearst and Cottweiler
A great story about growing up on a sheep farm in Uruguay, as well as beautiful clothes that show off wool’s qualities, helped Hearst to womenswear prize
Charm and a great life story, as much as her beautiful merino wool designs, lay behind the victory of Gabriela Hearst in the womenswear finals of this year’s International Woolmark Prize in Paris. And the fact she didn’t “lose it ... in front of people like Victoria Beckham”, one of this year’s judges, says Stuart McCullough, managing director of the Woolmark Company which awards the annual prizes.
Along with Hearst, British label Cottweiler was named winner of the menswear prize.
The prizes, awarded since the 1950s to promote Australian merino wool, are one of fashion’s most global and most prestigious. Both winners receive cash prizes of A$100,000 (HK$590,000) mentoring by industry leaders, Woolmark certification for their winning collections and the chance to have their clothes stocked in leading boutiques and department stores including Hong Kong’s Lane Crawford.
The annual prize challenges young designers to study wool and use it in ways that push its boundaries and capabilities. That certainly applied to Hearst’s winning collection, which used wool fibre so fine – just 14.5 microns thick – even McCullough confessed he’d never seen the like before.