Miuccia Prada’s autumn-winter 2017 show hits the mark in Milan with cosy knits, fur and fun
Mohair coats, beaded silk dresses and accessories ranging from satin cocktail shoes and furry moon boots to Easter bunny hoods wowed the crowd in eclectic autumn/winter collection
Miuccia Prada’s autumn/winter collection for Milan fashion week was packed with clothes and accessories that raised loud cheers from the audience.
The set had all the functionality of a college bedsit: walls covered in maps, teenage Polaroids and posters of pin-up girls, the audience sitting on beds. The first looks established the ’70s spirit: a student’s corduroy jacket and trousers, trailing a long, knitted scarf.
The theme segued into more grown-up clothes with lots of craft, and cosy knits that were colourful, fluffy and often beaded with florals. Knitwear underpinned the collection as knitted bras, mohair separates in zinging colour combinations, or geometric patterned wool suits worn with furry moon boots. Even beaded silk dresses had knitted trims.
The pin-up posters inspired the prints on ’60s shifts and two-piece outfits frothily trimmed with lots of girlish marabou. Sometimes the luxury of the look was subverted by tweedy country jackets in masculine checks. And sometimes those checks were spliced with pretty printed fabrics and edged with fun fur.
The collection was full of texture with mohair spun into soft coats and curvy dresses; the bright curly lamb coats and smooth silks swishing with long fringe beading had touch-me appeal. Fluff and fur even crept down to the footwear.
There was some serious swooning over the accessories. Colourful curly lamb moon boots and slippers ticked the box for the ski crowd. Satin cocktail shoes with carved heels and fastened with a giant button on a wide strap had pin-up appeal and there were practical multibuckled thigh boots. The bags were similarly textured with curly lamb and furry textures extending to the handles; knitted or fringed leather clutches; softly structured flap bags in an exotic mix of leathers. Shell necklaces, enormous Easter bunny marabou hoods and baker boy hats confirmed Miuccia Prada had cracked a winner.