How the fashion industry is tuning in to a diverse world

As more non-white, plus-size and disabled models hit the catwalk, leading and emerging designers realise the internet and social media can make or break their collections, so they need to appeal to a wider cross-section of buyers

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Puerto Rican model Joan Smalls was in fashion’s diversity spotlight when she became Estée Lauder’s first Latina “spokesmodel”. Photo: AFP

Published: 7:46pm, 8 Sep 2017Updated: 7:46pm, 8 Sep 2017

The fashion industry has become more diverse and more inclusive, but still has its flaws. Designers often have tunnel vision and the industry still makes shocking gaffes. There are too many cases of profound insensitivity and cavalier cultural appropriation but in the past decade, the industry has opened its doors to more people of colour, plus-size women, transgender women and those who simply don’t fit the fashion world’s definition of beauty. Most importantly, fashion is talking about diversity – and learning from its mistakes.

Two years ago, Brandice Henderson, who describes herself as a “fashion coach,” was having dinner with five designers in New York’s Harlem. They were all up-and-comers, lauded by major fashion magazines, who had dressed an assortment of famous women. The scene was typical for New York with one significant exception: All five were black.

Why are most fashion models still so white and thin when most of us aren’t?

Four years ago, five women walked into IMG Models and immediately impressed the company’s president, Ivan Bart. One of them especially stood out. Her name was Ashley Graham and she was plus-size. But as Bart puts it: “A star is a star is a star.” Graham has gone on to become the rare model who is known by name well outside the insulated world of fashion.

Plus-size model Ashley Graham attends The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala in New York in May 2017. Photo: AP

In 2017, Vogue ran countless photo stories celebrating Hollywood stars and cultural figures, but it also published visual essays on Latinas in Los Angeles, Alpha Kappa Alpha sorority sisters, lesbian models and black servicewomen.

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