7 big runway trends you’ll be shopping next season
The spring summer 2018 runways at Milan and Paris gave us plenty of sartorial food for thought and an insight into the trends that will be trickling down to the high street soon. Three big houses Chloe, Givenchy and Roberto Cavalli, ushered in new designers: Claire Waight Keller at Givenchy, Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloe and in Milan, Paul Surridge debuted his first collection at Cavalli.
Donatella Versace honoured her late brother Gianni’s legacy (it’s been 20 years since his death) in a impactful tribute collection. After digesting the major trends of the last few weeks, there were several inspired by 80s and 90s powerdressing, whilst others pointed to a new easiness for next spring. Here’s a clue to what’s soon appearing on the high street: designers liked to pair cool sportiness with careful craftsmanship and fine fabrics, with silhouettes becoming more wide and freeing.
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1) Big shoulders and boxy shapes
There was a time when ‘wide’ or ‘boxy’ would be synonymous with an insult in fashion. Not anymore. The bold 80s revival is truly making it’s mark on nearly all the major runways.
Power shoulders structured the silhouette at brands as stylistically divergent as Balenciaga, Sacai, Celine, Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent and Chanel.
Tailoring was created that roomy, oversized look that’s been so popular lately and sleeves were often exaggerated with volume like at Stella McCartney, or else with padded and exaggerated shoulders on Saint Laurent outfits and on Nina Ricci’s jackets and coats – all making for a roomy, often slouchy look.
Claire Waight Keller’s very disciplined debut collection for Givenchy also employed a boxy square shape on shirts and short dresses, but made them more wearable and commercial.
2) Whites and sorbet colours
It’s a no-brainer that pale colours like white, light pink, pale yellows and peaches will keep you cool.
An ice cream palette was everywhere, Loewe and Celine paired these hues most expertly, softening the effect of those perfectly crafted separates. Giambattista Valli’s girlish ruffles were further sweetened with pretty pastels, at Chloe it was peach and white, and pink provided a romantic turn at Christian Dior.
White was a key colour of the season: on poplin shirts and smock dresses of almost religious purity at Jil Sander, Isabel Marant’s chic opening outfits, and Chanel’s cap sleeved gowns and suits.
White leather is the height of luxury, so found a natural home at Tod’s on bomber jackets and slit skirts. Designers used these sweet, innocent tones for contrast too, like against heavily embroidered frock coats at Louis Vuitton or when Elie Saab’s pure white dresses and summer suits hit a nerve against an otherwise intense, tropical palette and Etro’s pale embroidered gowns segued into richly coloured ethnic prints.
3) All that sparkles and shines
Glitter is not just for Christmas, it sparkles in sunlight as well, as proven by the fashion crowd at Dolce&Gabbana, a well as at Chanel, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, who all showed an expert mastery of how to do shiny and sparkly elegantly.
It flashed in the darkness at Gucci where Alessandro Michele’s coats, wide-shouldered jackets and micro minis were inspired by Elton John’s 70s Glam Rock era.
It shimmered and shone on the catwalks at Vivetta and Bottega Veneta where it was handled with considerable subtlety and, of course, at Versace where supermodels closed the show wearing Gianni’s famous silver strass gowns.
Checks, grids and stripes were casting dizzying patterns across collections from Chanel, Marni, Missoni, Bottega Veneta and especially Fendi where breezy layers of organza, silks, hosiery and even handbags in multiple patterns of stripes and checks were pulled together in each look.
Missoni naturally is fond of a multi-coloured knitted check and Marni popped diaphanous check dresses under stiffened patchwork bodices that had a make-do-and-mend aesthetic.
Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel did bright, funky plaids in innovative tweeds and clever, wide-cut, 80s inspired power suiting, whilst Hermes’s pared back chic was accentuated with large plaid patterns.
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5) Trench coats and outerwear
With fashion’s biggest markets shifting east and towards warmer climates, you do wonder how relevant the traditional spring summer and autumn winter staples will be in the future. Fittingly then perhaps, one of next spring’s biggest trends is light but hardly outwear.
It’s not just the bold graphic colours of the techno windbreaker jackets at the likes of Balenciaga and Masha Ma. Innovative versions of the classic camel trench coat is a big feature at Celine, in silk at Bottega Veneta and coming in shades of blue at Gabriel Colangelo with artsy shibori appliqués.
At Margiela, it was dressed up brilliantly with bouncy feathers, mirrored sequins, sheers and corsets – showing that this classic item needn’t be so classic at all. Often trenches, raincoats and parkas were upscaled in luxurious fabrics with gorgeous details like at Fendi, Giorgio Armani and perhaps most beautifully by Pier Paolo Piccioli at Valentino (those embellishments!) and Sarah Burton at McQueen who used silky floral fabrics.
6) Pop art and pop culture
Pop Art, be it the iconic Andy Warhol images of Marilyn Monroe, cartoons, bold graphics and Manga artwork, illustrates catwalk art is stepping away from just florals. Marilyn’s image was knitted at Missoni, art dazzled on dresses and thigh boots at Versace, alongside catsuits with Warholesque prints of Vogue covers.
Dior featured images inspired directly from artist Niki de Saint Phalle on dresses and Giorgio Armani explored 60s style pop art graphics. It was movie poster art that decorated bags at Marco de Vincenzo, whilst the comic strips by visionary female artists like Brigid Elva printed all over Prada’s coats and skirts.
Kenzo’s collection took this pop, graphic aesthetic to the extreme with super saturated colours, graphic stripes and slogans printed on tops.
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7) Denim and indigo hues
Dior, and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s current obsession with blue, led the way for the high-low trend in high fashion denims and indigo blues. Denim looks have been part of the high fashion fixture for several seasons now coinciding with the rise of streetwear, with it being tailored into drop shoulder dresses and coats at Fendi, while cowboy jackets looked super neat at Versace, and even at Guillaume Henry’s most covetable Nina Ricci show to date, denim.
Chanel’s show was pointedly looking at the ecosystem and nature for inspiration, and so came layers of inky blue tie-dye prints on dresses and washed out, light summery denims. Oversized denim jackets and waistcoats were a feature at Stella McCartney.