Five trends in men’s fashion for autumn-winter 2017: with cords in camel, ’70s styles are back
Fashion trends for men this season hark back to the decade that style forgot, with shades of brown and corduroy now all the rage
It seems silly to consider autumn-winter clothing trends when it’s still warm outside, but blame global warming rather than the fashion labels who are now dutifully filling racks with their latest seasonal offerings.
If there is one overarching trend this season, it’s the 1970s, with the decade that style supposedly forgot now informing colours and cuts – and even fabrics with corduroy inexplicably making a comeback.
Shades of brown, such as camel, have been popping up all over the place but orange also made its presence felt. When it comes to silhouettes, menswear is no longer skinny, as clothes got looser up top and down below.
1. Study in brown
“Millennial pink” gets far more attention than it deserves; the reality on the autumn-winter catwalks has been markedly different. Gucci, arguably the brand that started the ’70s craze, has been using camel and brown for a few seasons now, but other big Italian labels, including Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Brunello Cucinelli, are nailing the look now too.
Best results seem to be incorporating one camel-coloured item into an outfit, but Berluti has added a tailored refinement to the ostensibly bold idea of an all-camel look.
Looks: Berluti, Brunello Cucinelli
2.Orange all over
For the camel-is-a-dad-colour crowd, the more provocative colour trend this season is orange, which sashayed its way down the catwalks at many of the more avant-garde and youthful labels, including Dior Homme (Kris van Assche momentarily deviating from his tried and trusted black and red aesthetic), as well as Etro, Marni and Ports 1961.
The fashion-forward kids will rock bold orange jackets, trousers and for the incredibly brave the full orange look, but the mainstream mass market brands are pushing orange sweaters and tees to add pop to a winter wardrobe.
Looks: Dior Homme, Givenchy
3. Squaring up
The slow but sure move away from the skinny look that defined the 2000s started with jackets and tops rather than jeans and trousers. Boxy fit jackets were all the rage in Paris, London, New York and Milan.
Balenciaga’s autumn-winter show was the most extreme rendering of this trend, with almost entirely square shoulders, and it will undoubtedly be the most influential when boxy looks go mass market, but most of the major labels pushed loose and boxy double-breasted jackets (the key jacket trend) and overcoats.
Boxy silhouettes are entrenched in COS’s Scandinavian roots and the brand makes the most wearable, and affordable, takes on this trend.
Looks: H&M Studio, Paul Smith
4. Loosey goosey
It’s loose up top but getting very loose down below, too. All of the major labels sent models down the catwalk in flowing trousers this season. Drainpipes, low-rise trousers and jeans are on the outs; mid-rise and high-rise (waistbands that sit higher on the hips) with pleats are increasingly in.
The fits are obviously much more comfortable and outwardly at least look casual. Zegna, Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, E. Tautz and Marni as well as COS, Topman and Zara are all pushing looser trousers.
Looks: Zegna, COS
5. Cords of memory
It was almost inevitable that given the vogue for the ’70s, corduroy, that once maligned fabric beloved of geography teachers and trainspotters, would make a high fashion, post-irony comeback.
Corduroy was big on the catwalk, with some luxury brands (Prada, Officine Generale) focused on tailoring and pushing all-corduroy suits but most others incorporating either a corduroy casual jacket, or corduroy trousers, but not necessarily both.
The other noticeable trend with the fabric was its colour, with Giorgio Armani, Hermes and others offering burgundy, blue, grey and other shades to add sophistication to an ordinarily workwear material.
Looks: Giorgio Armani, Prada