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LIFE
LifestyleFashion & Beauty
Jing Zhang

OpinionWhile Wang waxes elegant, Slimane goes grunge

Another Paris fashion week has passed and, along with it, a seasonal cycle of controversy.

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Alexander Wang's Balenciaga debut was sophisticated. Photo: NYT

Another Paris fashion week has passed and, along with it, a seasonal cycle of controversy. Because of the sheer newness, the famous fashion houses involved and a mountain of PR brouhaha, Alexander Wang's debut at Balenciaga and Hedi Slimane's second womenswear season at Saint Laurent made the biggest headlines.

The Balenciaga show was the eagerly anticipated debut of a young, commercially minded American helming one of Paris' most prestigious couture houses. The house founded by Cristobal Balenciaga has a history of serving the aristocracy. Previous designer Nicholas Ghesquiere had been receiving positive reviews. So when it was announced that the American urbanite would be stepping in, there were some detractors.

Wang, it seems, is aware of the pressures of proving them wrong. By showing an incredibly tight collection, largely black and white (one of his own signatures), with clever and unconventional cuts, knife-edge folds and technical fabrics, he won over some diehard Balenciaga fans.

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It was sophisticated and subtle, grown up and European. Wang also acknowledged his role in making the collections more commercial and saleable.

We shall soon see his plans to replace the more feminine and dramatic flourishes of Ghesquiere that many fans might miss. But all in all, he attained initial success. Beaming as he walked onto the catwalk to take his bow, the sailing seemed rather smooth.

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Hedi Slimane, on the other hand, seems to find it hard to stay far from controversy.

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