How to make the cut: Jason Basmajian

Gieves & Hawkes proudly hangs three royal warrants above the door of its Savile Row establishment in London. These warrants signify its distinguished record of making the scarlet livery of the royal household, and tailoring the uniforms of the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh. But a portrait of new global creative director Jason Basmajian, an American, seated in front of two such scarlet uniforms, heralds a significant shift in ambition for the famed British tailor.

The classic British brand was snapped up one year ago by Trinity Ltd., the men's luxury fashion arm of the Fung Group. It boasts a rich history (Admiral Lord Nelson, Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin were clients) but had been treading water while other international tailoring raced ahead. Being well established in Hong Kong, Gieves & Hawkes now has the mainland in its sights. Basmajian is tasked with building and expanding the menswear lines, and infusing them with the bespoke savoir faire for which the tailor is famed.

Basmajian sums up his mission as brand elevation and evolution, but not revolution. "You don't change 240 years of history [the company was founded in 1771] overnight, you build on it," he explains.

In two days' time, Basmajian will present his second collection for Gieves & Hawkes, spring-summer 2014, at London Collections: Men. This is no small feat given he only moved onto the Row, as it is fondly described, in late January. He has already produced an impressive autumn-winter debut collection, which wowed critics in April.

"The gentlemen who shop at Gieves & Hawkes have the same values as their great grandfathers, but their lifestyles are different," Basmajian says.

To reflect this faster pace of life, there are more urban tweeds in the main line, and the range is slightly more luxury sportswear oriented. "But our man is still very dressed, even on the weekends," he says.