Marc Jacobs' departure from Louis Vuitton steals the show in Paris

"For Robert Duffy and Bernard Arnault, All my love, Always," read the final page of the show notes at Marc Jacobs' last Louis Vuitton collection.

This season, America's most powerful designer bid an emotional farewell to 16 years at the world's most famous fashion brand, the note referring to his business partner Duffy and LVMH chief, Arnault. The darkly glamorous collection was staged against sets from several of his memorable shows: the carousel, the "Night Porter" elevators, the railway station clock, even a pair of escalators. All were now coated in black, the most chic colour since the Victorians.

Although the almost all black collection might at first seem a bit macabre, it was also an ode to the city of Paris - headquarters of the house of Louis Vuitton, and all its dazzling decoration and ornamentation. "It's not about thinking; it's about feeling ... Adornment for beauty's sake," says Jacobs' show notes.

The superficial connection is as honest as the intellectual one, he argues.

Dedicated to the women who inspire him, including Jane Birkin, Anna Wintour, Lady Gaga, Édith Piaf, Vivienne Westwood, Miuccia Prada, Coco Chanel, Rei Kawakubo, Jacob's Vuitton finale was "to the showgirl in all of us".

And the showgirl certainly came through. Models wore risqué sheer dresses and tops with stunning beaded embellishments and workmanship. There were elaborate feather headdresses (a toast to Paris showgirls) and touches of American sportswear, including a varsity jacket with Paris written on the back. But apart from the sequined Louis Vuitton graffiti logo tights, Jacobs remarkably managed to sway from too camp and towards a noirish 1930s drama. Wide-leg, blue utility jeans worn under these sexy tops were a curious and interesting touch.