Paris Fashion Week

John Galliano brings a touch of drama to his Margiela ready-to-wear debut

PUBLISHED : Monday, 09 March, 2015, 12:37pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 11 March, 2015, 4:21pm

There were several headliners showing Saturday in Paris - Dior and Balenciaga included - but it was the Maison Margiela show that everyone wanted to see. Margiela has always been a cult favourite with editors, but has been missing its edge over the past few years. A beacon of hope came in the form of new creative director John Galliano, who finally showcased his first ready-to-wear collection for the house.

In keeping with Margiela’s discreet style, the show was intimate with limited numbers and a strict no-celebrity policy (sorry Kanye). Galliano didn’t even come out to take a bow despite the pleas from the audience and photographers.

His no-show may have been typical Margiela but the collection itself was pure Galliano, from the clown-like make-up and whimsical Stephen Jones hats to the dramatic scenes (one model appeared to be a hunchback while another gripped a large paper bag as if she was in despair). His signatures were all there - sweeping coats, corsetry and sheer baby dolls with fur trims – all executed with a more modern touch.

That being said there some old-school Margiela details that fans will love, from jackets that appeared to be worn backwards and nude body suits to exposed stitches and frayed hems . The question is, will this be enough to keep fans happy?