Highlights from Paris: Celine and Ackermann heat up the runways
While Paris is known for its elegant and polished fashion, this weekend saw two designers shed new light on how modern women want to dress.
Celine: form over function
Celine has always been about the functional – it was Phoebe Philo who was responsible for bringing back minimalism a few seasons ago – but for autumn she explored another side to her woman, one that is slightly more undone, but no less alluring.
There was a more avant garde spirit, seen in the black and white dresses decorated with holes, ribbons and lace, while quilted white silk coats came unbuttoned to reveal various areas of the shoulders and décolleté. Zebra prints – another a huge trend on the catwalks – also made an appearance.
The knits were also noteworthy and included sweaters with sculptural bell sleeves and body hugging dresses that ended just below the knees (a popular length this season); others came with knitted bras a la Madonna. For those looking to embrace their girly side, there were fox printed silk blouses.
Of course Celine is also known for its best-selling accessories and there were plenty of these. But rather than invest in those balls of fur that were slung over the shoulder, every editor was lusting after the more wearable white trainers and gold earrings.
Ackermann: prints of contrast
Haider Ackermann showed one of his most elegant collections to date while staying true to the dark and romantic aesthetic that has made him one of the most talked about designers in Paris. Although he is known for his sublime sense of colour, this season he played with contrasting prints, from geometric checks to leopard print, often mixing them together on tailored belted jackets and trousers.
Details such as cross stitching and loose threads, which were also woven into the models' hair, gave the impression that these were pieces to keep forever, regardless of how many times you need to sew them back together again.
Gone were the fluid silks of the past season. In their place he showed metallic tweeds, sometimes matched with kilt-like pleated skirts that were slung low on the hips. Rich red velvet was painted with gold leaf and transformed into a super chic trouser suit that was both covetable and cool.