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Susan Jung

2/F The L Place, 139 Queen's Road Central
Tel: 2870 2323 
Open: 11.30am-10.30pm (last order)
Cuisine: pig-centric European
Price: about HK$325 without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: the place is spacious and comfortable, and service was friendly.
Pros: the food. The menu is brief, which (to me, anyway) is a good thing - there's a better chance of getting a good dish than if the kitchen spreads itself too thin by offering too much.
Cons: there's not much if you don't want pig - out of the 12 mains, only five were non-pork options. The name of the starter of roasted beets with yogurt cheese, coriander, chervil and almonds (HK$88) led me to believe that beets would play a starring role. Although we enjoyed the dish (which had spinach greens dressed with a nicely balanced dressing, roasted tomatoes and a delicious, dense and funky cheese), the beets were scarce. They may want to rethink the sides, many of which sound a little too substantial (creamed spinach, mac 'n' cheese); something lighter and more refreshing would go with the hearty main courses. The only dish I didn't like was the side of pancetta-braised creamy Brussels sprouts (HK$48), which were mushy and heavy.
Recommended dishes: "our little fish and prawn pie" (HK$118) might have been small, but it was so good we couldn't stop eating, even though we had a substantial main course to come. The seafood was well cooked and bound with a rich, creamy, béchamel-type sauce. My guest and I were happy with the shared plate of the braised Duroc Spanish pork belly with lentils and roasted vegetables (HK$288). The well-layered meat was pink, moist and tender. Even better, the skin had been removed then fried, so it provided crisp contrast to the rich meat.
What else? Many of the dinner dishes are meant to serve two. The Salted Pig replaces the short-lived Se Sa Me.
Susan Jung


The Salted Pig

Braised Duroc Spanish pork belly (top right) and sweet peas with bacon and lettuce. Photos: Jonathan Wong

Lifestyle

Food & Drink

The food. The menu is brief, which (to me, anyway) is a good thing - there's a better chance of getting a good dish than if the kitchen spreads itself too thin by offering too much.
