Chablis, in the eastern French region of Burgundy, is famous for its dry white chardonnays. Such is the reputation of its wines that other wine regions used Chablis on their own labels. This practice has been restricted, although some California jug wines still use it.
Chablis' harsh winters and severe spring frosts can adversely influence yields and the quality of the final wine. Anne Moreau from Domaine Louis Moreau notes that weather patterns have been changing over the past decade and there is a decreasing incidence of the frosts that can damage the vines and reduce grape yields.
Another factor in the wine is the soil. Some of the soils in the Chablis region are more than 180 million years old. The most prized is the Kimmeridge from the Jurassic era, composed of clay, limestone and fossilised marine creatures. The soil gives the wine its unique style, often described as flinty, mineral and steely. Master of Wine Jancis Robinson says, "Wet stones are what I like to smell from young Chablis."
Winemaking traditionally was fairly simple, with little oak usage, the goal was to preserve and express the terroir. As Burgundy expert Jasper Morris describes it, "Chablis for me needs to speak of whence it came." Some producers have moved away from this style and follow the modern trend of extensive maturation in new oak. The wines can still be good, even if their origin is lost in the layers of oak tannins.
Chablis has four different quality levels. The basic level is Petit Chablis, mostly from vineyards in the north of the sub-region. These wines are variable in quality.
The next level, Chablis, covers the largest area. Most vineyards are located on slopes. These are made for early drinking, and good ones will show expression of their origin.