A Milanese Christmas tradition, this festive bread has become popular worldwide. Janice Leung takes the cake Cova With a very fine and moist crumb that resembles cake more than bread, this panettone becomes a little pasty after a couple of chews. It is elegant rather than heavy, with a mild sweetness and citrus aroma. HK$340, Cova, citywide Filippi This rich, eggy tasting bread has a delicate fragrance of orange zest. It is fluffy, but still has some strong strands and texture to it. It has just the right amount of moisture and isn't overly heavy. HK$200, City'super, citywide Tre Marie Packed with raisins, this is the largest of those tried and has a very dark crust, which makes the edges particularly tasty. It is also quite dense and heavy but with a little moisture. HK$300, Oliver's The Delicatessen Il Vecchio Forno This panettone is rather sweet, and tastes of orange peel, although you can't actually see any peel. The bread is relatively moist and fluffy, but there is a distinct lack of dried fruits. HK$270, Jason's, citywide La Rose Noire The driest and lightest of those tasted, it has a texture like day-old brioche and a wet, sweet paste on top. It has a nasty, artificial citrus flavour reminiscent of detergent. HK$58, Wellcome and ThreeSixty, citywide