Asian Grapevine

The wines I remember most vividly blend in the context of meals, where they evolve and reveal themselves over several hours - with some opening up and others fading all too quickly. I relish the moments when a wine is given life and dimension because of a wonderful pairing.

The meals below are an ode to some of the wonderful combinations of wine and food I enjoyed this year.
 

San Francisco
While I love authentic local dishes, I also applaud innovation, and one of the chefs I have been following in San Francisco is Corey Lee, a Korean-American.

Lee was head chef for four years at the French Laundry and despite the time he spent working with Thomas Keller, his Asian-influenced dishes at his own restaurant, Benu, are different from those he created at the French Laundry.

The set dinner menu of 18 courses made wine pairing a challenge, but we chose a 1999 Leroy Bourgogne, which was surprisingly youthful and filled with bright cherry flavours laced with spices such as sweet nutmeg and with meaty notes on the finish. It was perfect with dishes such as Hokkaido sea cucumber stuffed with shrimp, cucumber, lily bulb and fermented pepper as well as the charcoal-grilled beef, Korean-style, with pear, gingko nuts and dates.

If you want to take the easy option, ask Yoon Ha, the restaurant's beverage director who is also a master sommelier.
 

Bangkok
When I was told about a "crazy Indian chef" who did a two-month stint at El-Bulli's food laboratory, it piqued my interest. I was in Bangkok speaking at the World Gourmet Summit in September, so I took the opportunity to visit Gaggan, named for chef Gaggan Anand. He describes his food as modern Indian, is as entertaining as Jamie Oliver and is obviously passionate about food.