
The wine region Tokaj-Hegyalja, located in northeastern Hungary, is famed for its dessert wine Tokaji Aszu. This is a wine steeped in history and culture. It has been lauded by emperors such as Russia's Peter the Great and composers such as Brahms and Schubert.
Such an eminent history makes it a challenge to break away from the past. One modern winery that has successfully blended tradition and innovation is Holdvolgy (Moon Valley).
The winery was founded in 2004 when Pascal Demko's mother entrusted her son to search for a suitable birthday present for her husband. He succeeded in the acquisition of the vineyards and is now trying to ensure the land and its wines live up to their potential.
Demko has broken from tradition and the wines are not named after the region or grape variety. He says: "People do not know the grapes. I have used names which are more expressive of the wines."
The wines bear names such as Meditation, Expression, Exaltation, Eloquence, Signature, Culture and Intuition with the aim of reflecting the style and mood of the wines. The names may sound new age and vague, but the wines themselves are precise. Demko is striving to make wines with the "most precise terroir for the given variety and vintage".
To achieve this goal, each parcel of land is harvested individually, and each row of fruit is fermented separately in micro-fermenters. Demko knows Hungary has no luxury brands, and his mission is to build up the first one. The label, which was created in Paris and London, is minimalistic and elegant.