I'm careering around the dusty roads of Siem Reap in the back of a tuk-tuk. At the wheel is Joannes Riviere, the chef from Cuisine Wat Damnak. As we slow down to make a turn, I notice a group of Cambodians standing around a street-side food stall, watching us and giggling.
It's not clear whether they're laughing because they've never seen a foreigner - or as Khmers call us, barang - at the wheel of a tuk-tuk, or because they know that Riviere is a famous chef who probably shouldn't be driving one at all.
The Frenchman, who moved to Cambodia in 2003 and who speaks almost fluent Khmer, is credited with being one of the few chefs in the country who is cooking "real" Cambodian food.
While his restaurant is popular with foreigners, more and more of his customers are Khmer. Riviere's partner, and the restaurant's co-owner, Carole Salmon says: "After eating his food Cambodians are sometimes surprised that the chef is French. They are sure he must be Cambodian."
Cambodian cuisine, Riviere says, is all about the ingredients. "It's a complete mistake to reduce Cambodian food to a bunch of recipes," he tells me, explaining that many dishes traditionally rely on ingredients that are fresh and locally grown. "Cambodian food is all based on produce."