The vine art of Burgundy

Burgundy, one of wine’s most revered regions, is notable for its many small estates and colourful characters. Visiting the vineyards can be key to getting to grips with wines that have a reputation for being difficult to understand. On a recent trip, I had the luck to visit many estates and meet the faces behind the wines.

A visit to the historic Chateau de Beaune, owned by Thomas Henriot, who also owns businesses that include Champagne Henriot, Bouchard Pere et Fils, William  Fevre and Villa Ponciago had many highlights. But the main reason to come here is the chardonnay-based white so closely associated with  the region.

After a delicious Champagne Henriot Cuvee des Enchanteleurs 1996, we tried a grand cru William Fevre Les Clos 2009. Henriot also uncorked an archetypal Burgundy gamay in the form of Villa Ponciago Fleurie Cuvee Les Hauts Du Py 2010. 

With a rare wine collection that dates back to the mid-19th century, a visit to one of Burgundy’s treasures at the Bouchard Pere et Fils deep cellars should be on every wine lover’s bucket list. Lunch with managing director Christophe Bouchard allowed him to showcase the cellar’s grand cru ChevalierMontrachet 2007, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2007 and a delightful Beaune Greve Vigne De L’Enfant Jesus 1976. These wines really highlight the terroir characteristics of Burgundy.

The Hong Kong Wine Society was also touring Burgundy at this time, and I caught up with them at Domaine de Bellene, the estate run by vigneron extraordinaire Nicolas Potel. Nicolas is the son of the revered Gerard Potel, who managed Domaine Pousse d’Or in Volnay whose self-named business propelled him onto the A list of Burgundy producers.

Now the talented Nicolas has taken a leaf out of his old man’s book and owns Domaine de Bellene plus a negociant business, Maison Roche de Bellene. He believes in making high quality wines from old vines and great terroir; 100 per cent organically grown grapes; no acidification; no sugar; no filtration and bottling by gravity.