Top of the pots

Despite its humble appearance, claypot rice is a time-consuming dish that takes plenty of know-how to get right. The results are well worth the effort and a properly made claypot rice is one of the most comforting of winter treats.

It all starts with the rice, which should be soft, dry and slightly al dente. The grains on the side should form a golden brown crust that separates easily from the pot. Finally, there needs to be a balance between all the toppings you pile onto the rice.

Most dai pai dong and cha chaan teng offer this dish during the colder months but the following five places edge out the competition.

Expect to wait for a table at Kwan Kee in Sai Wan. This tiny eatery is always packed and for good reason: it's one of the few places in town that still makes claypot rice the traditional way, over a charcoal fire. Everything is cooked fresh to order and, although it takes close to 30 minutes to prepare, this process guarantees a layer of perfectly crisped, crusty rice at the bottom of every pot.

Another plus is the extensive menu, with more than 20 savoury toppings. The preserved Chinese sausage is easily a favourite, boasting meat that's satisfyingly greasy and tinged with sweetness. Fans also swear by the eel. It's exceptionally tender and is best enjoyed when served under a blanket of chillies, garlic and black bean sauce. You can enjoy the eel as a solo topping but regulars pair it with succulent chunks of chicken.

While Kwan Kee's charcoal stoves give it an obvious edge, other places, such as Wun Hing Lung have done well for themselves without this added luxury.