Usually made of dried seafood, chilli and Chinese ham, the Hong Kong invention is named after the equally luxurious XO cognac. goes for a dip.
Contains plenty of shrimp paste and dry ingredients that have been cut to a finer size for easy dipping. The shrimp flavours are heavy, but are countered by a slight sweetness. Although large chunks of chilli are visible, they taste relatively mild.
HK$116, Great Food Hall, Pacific Place, Admiralty
The palest of all the sauces tested, this is full of strings of torn-up dried scallop, which makes dipping difficult - you eat it in the same way as a salsa, by scooping. It is rich with umami and has well-integrated flavours, although spice fiends will need to add a lot more chilli.
HK$76, Pat Chun, 75 Wellington Street, Central