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Making a strong case for pairing beer and cheese

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At the tasting, cheese is washed down with beer. Photo: Corbis
Giovanna Dunmall

"If you are eating a mild cheese, you should have a beer with low taste intensity. If you go for a very strong cheese, you need to go for a very strong beer."

So says Nicolas Soenen, the beer ambassador for Duvel, a Belgian brewer, and our guide for a memorable beer and cheese pairing in the basement of Antwerp restaurant Grand Cafe De Rooden Hoed. Soenen believes a good pairing is "when the flavours are not fighting in your mouth".

Most importantly, a good pairing is when "you taste a little bit of both in the aftertaste and something new is created".

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The first rule of such a tasting session is that the cheese should always be eaten first (and swallowed) as it leaves a coating of fat and creaminess in the mouth, which the beer then cuts through, explains Soenen.

We start with a light vanilla-flavoured goat's cheese from Normandy (all the cheeses are provided by the award-winning Van Tricht family who have a store outside Antwerp; kaasmeestervantricht.be) and a "caramel-flavoured" 5 per cent De Koninck beer, served typically in the bolleke, or bowl-shaped glass, and then wind our way up in intensity.

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The final pairing is a pungent Le Vieux Berger Roquefort and a Duvel Tripel Hop. At 9.5 per cent, the beer packs a punch and is a good match with the cheese. "The bitterness of this beer suits the bitterness of the cheese," he says.

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