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Diner's Diary
LifestyleFood & Drink
Bernice Chan

Diner’s Diary | Fabrice Vulin at Caprice makes French food with a delicious twist

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Chilled risotto with spider crab and Kristal caviar.
Bernice Chanin Vancouver

Chef de cuisine Fabrice Vulin has been ensconced at Caprice for more than a year now, and has been wowing diners with his fantastic food.

He doesn’t restrict himself to traditional French cuisine by the book, but uses a lot of Mediterranean flavours, no doubt inspired by the four years spent running a restaurant in Marrakesh, Morocco.

We were invited to try some of his latest culinary creations, and while Vulin is shy communicating in English, he speaks the language of food with passion.

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For starters the chilled risotto with spider crab and Kristal caviar was cleverly presented in the caviar tin. Another favourite was the langoustine from Brittany with spinach and morels. Who knew one could perfectly pair the sweet crustacean with such earthy ingredients? 

Langoustine with spinach and morels.
Langoustine with spinach and morels.
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We also had a chance to sample two cheeses from Caprice’s vast collection. Comte, aged 48 months, was paired with vin jaune from Jura, and mimolette was wonderfully matched with French beer – Blanche Hermine from Brasserie Lancelot. 

Rum baba with vintage rum, pineapple, chestnut and lime cream.
Rum baba with vintage rum, pineapple, chestnut and lime cream.
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