How Nakamuras spun gold from matcha tea, now in Hong Kong

High up in The One in Tsim Sha Tsui, there's a massive queue at the entrance to Nakamura Tokichi, the famous matcha tea cafe from Kyoto. Judging by the turnout only days after the opening, it will be a while yet before the excitement dies down for all things matcha - from soba noodles to chiffon cake, tea jelly and ice cream.

The Nakamura family goes back seven generations and the sixth generation is currently heading the business. Traditionally, the eldest son of each generation takes the reins - and even has to legally change his name to Tokichi Nakamura, after the founder who established the shop in 1854.

Since then the business has spread to six shops in Kyoto, and now the outlet in Hong Kong - the first outside Japan's ancient capital.

It's not hard to tell the generations apart. The current Tokichi Nakamura is 63, and a day before the official opening he wore a light grey suit, a white shirt with tiny light-blue polka dots, tie and stylish purple shoes. Meanwhile, his eldest son,  Shogo, 34, is comfortable in a black T-shirt and jeans.

"We could open shops in Japan any time," the elder Nakamura says. "We started looking at expanding overseas three years ago, to Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia. We did some market research and then got a Hong Kong partner and opened here."

Shogo and his younger brother Shingo, 32, will be based in Hong Kong, while their father will visit twice a month to check up on things. They are pleasantly surprised by buzz that the opening has generated, although they are quickly selling out of items that are flown in fresh every day from Kyoto.