Newly opened Fishsteria Seafood Place is a good catch in part

Fishsteria Seafood Place in Wan Chai replaced the short-lived Opera House, and while the decor is the same, the menu has switched from  Italian to seafood.

Our server was quite knowledgeable and offered some suggestions. Fresh oysters are sourced from France, South Africa and Ireland, and we particularly liked the briny Eire N4 oysters at a  reasonable HK$18 a piece.

However, things didn’t fare well with the bisque (HK$168), made with Boston lobster, carrots and saffron. The top notes of the soup definitely tasted like a bisque, but then it fell flat, with no lingering shellfish essence.

We were intrigued by the homemade burrata cheese with a grilled vegetable salad (HK$178). While we appreciated the effort making this cheese, it lacked creaminess, although we loved the accompanying vegetable salad with grilled peppers, greens, aubergine and onions, which made it a very colourful dish.

The main event was the whole baked turbot with porcini mushrooms and braised potatoes (HK$498), which is enough for two. We were curious about the braised potatoes, which turned out to be slices of potato roasted with the fish, as the chef explained  to us. He recommended this dish because porcini mushrooms are in season. The dish was worth the wait - it was delicious, with the fish cooked perfectly so it had tender flesh, and the porcini were plump and juicy.

The dessert selection wasn’t particularly impressive. We thought the strawberry, lemon and cream made as gelato (HK$98) was going to be a combination of the three ingredients, but in fact was a trio of gelato scoops that were refreshing but ordinary.

Fishsteria Seafood Place, G/F & 1/F, 109-111 Queen's Road East, Wan Chai. Tel: 2343 8111