Bar review: The Pontiac gets the mix just right

The vibe: in a word, American trad - the dark wood decor, neon signs and friendly welcome make you feel as if you’ve walked onto the set of Cheers, only with cooler staff. Action revolves around the bar, where customers sit and chat with the staff and each other. There are also tables at the back and an outdoor area for smokers. Music is a pleasantly eclectic mix, from rock to reggae to country.

The drinks: the big attraction of The Pontiac is Beckaly Franks, newly arrived from the US with a reputation as a star bartender. The drinks we tried showed her mastery of the mixologist’s art and flair for creating well balanced, top quality cocktails with esoteric ingredients yet classic character.

Fight or Flight is a delicious concoction of vodka, pear brandy and citrus, while Hobnail features intense fresh ginger with scotch, Averna, bitters and lemon. Runaway is a stylish take on the tropics - rum, coconut, pineapple and lime, with crème de noyaux adding an intriguing nutty note. Those who like it light might try the Heisenberg - a gin-based slushie with a pretty pale blue colour from blue curaçao and a touch of absinthe.